Logan 1935-2 lathe

[Oldseabee]

Now a question on wear. How much play is to much when pertaining to the Worm gear in the apron? It's supported on each end by a bearing but the parts manual says bearings only pertains to the 12 inch model not my 11 inch. But my worm gear is set up exactly like it shows In the diagram with bearing supports on each end and these supports held in place by set screws.
Any advice or help appreciated. I'm going to call Logan on Monday to see what they think.
Mike

 

[twhite]

Now a question on wear. How much play is to much when pertaining to the Worm gear in the apron? It's supported on each end by a bearing but the parts manual says bearings only pertains to the 12 inch model not my 11 inch. But my worm gear is set up exactly like it shows In the diagram with bearing supports on each end and these supports held in place by set screws.
Any advice or help appreciated. I'm going to call Logan on Monday to see what they think.
Mike

Mike

The worm gear looks to be in decent shape. Along with the adjoining gear.


Cutting oil is my blood.

 

[twhite]

You can chase your tail forever on a rebuild. Get it running and see if you have any real issues left. That is an easy fix if you find a problem with it.

MAKE SOME CHIPS!


Cutting oil is my blood.

 

[Oldseabee]

More parts needed. The Apron Worm and the support bushings are kaput. Worm gear only has about 1/4 of the square key that ride in the mainshaft. And both bushings are shot.
Tom, I know what your getting at. I'm looking at the Bright Side. I tore the clutch apart, cleaned it up oiled it an re assembled and baged up to keep crap out of it. The mainshaft and the half nuts are in good condition. I'm surprised that there is not more internal damage due to no oil.

 

[Oldseabee]

Now today I'm re visiting the jackshaft rubber bushings. What a PITA this is. I droped the jackshaft over a month ago and ordered the bushings. Someone had replaced the bushings in the next down but not this upper one. Has any of you replaced these and if so what's the trick? By the diagram I'm talking about the upper unit

Mike

 

[Oldseabee]

Apron work. On my Apron issues besides a worn worm gear and damaged end caps I found that the eccentric labeled part # 44 cannot be removed for repair until you remove part 10. Part 10 us held in place with 2 bolts but I could not get my to budge. I finally called Scott at Logan. He thought that when they assembled it that they used aviation grade permatex on it. After several heatings with a propane torch and spraying the joint with brake cleaner to stuff finally broke down and allowed me to remove part 10. When I put it back together no permatex. I haven't used any of that sealer in years and hate getting it on my hands.
In the diagram part 11 is 2 1/8 ×5/8 roll pins. Scott says these keep part # 13 fixed in place so no movement of that part. Mine was missing both pins. No wonder mine worked so poorly.

 

[Oldseabee]

White waiting for apron parts I decided to tackle the jackshaft vibrating isolator one for each end. I had to pull the pillow blocks out and drop the shaft. That allowed me to remove and clean the jackshaft mounting bracket which is cast iron and heavy. I just now got it reinstalled. Both jackshaft bearings are shot. So are the lower shaft bearings. So I just ordered 4 ABEC 5 bearings from Buffalo Bearings in Buffalo New York. Got a great deal on the. Owners name is Greg and c when I told him what they were going on he said these would be the best. Electric motor grade bearings should last another 30 years. I would guess that's what ate all the old belts up. Here is a picture of the old bushings and the new ones.

 

[Oldseabee]

Working on the spindel today. Front bearing installed. Then took some measurements with lots of head scratching. I'm at 6mm with the spacer between the bearings. Scott had no idea on the original spacer thickness as shown in the diagram. So one of my smaller spacers measures out a 6mm . I just hope it all goes together. I've had the spindel in and out 3 times so far. There is a Fibre washer that goes between the bull gear and the Vbelt drive pulls. That Fibre washer keeps dropping. I've even tried some assembly lube grease to hold it in place. And installed new bushings in the V belt drive and pinion gear. Used a brake cylinder hone to get the bushings to be a perfect fit.

 

[Oldseabee]

Today lots of accomplishments. The head is basically finished internally. Still have yo install all of the back end gears.
One person can assemble the headstock. Not easy but possible. Here are some hints and work around. If you install new bushings in the Vbelt and pinion gear make sure that you ream them out to a tight fit. I used 2 brake cylinder hones . Be careful use lots of oil. Have plenty of clean rags or paper towels. After each run of the hone as in 2-4 minutes stop and clean. Install the back gear on the spindel while it is standing up on a bench. Don't knock it over. Wipe the interior out and spray with brake cleaner to remove all abrasives and removed material. Next try fitting the V belt and pinion assembly onto the spindel. Do not force them. When it's reamed it should drop right where it goes, and oil the inside of the bushings first. It took me several hours of work. I also had to ream my back gear as it was to tight of fit. This head now has 2 P5 rated deep groove bearings with a 6mm spacer between the 2 front bearings. It all fits perfectly. And boy does it turn smoothly. Just grabbing the spindel thread protector I got it to spin 1.5 revolutions and jut a tad more.
Now I have to wait for the jackshaft and the lower shaft bearings to get here. I have 4 P5 bearings for those 4 pillow blocks. They were $35.00 each but should last longer than me. And it will be not so noisy or eat belts..
Then I'll tackle the Apron as it's in parts, and then the transmission as the bushings for it came today.
When completed it will be like a new machine. Just not as pretty as I'm not getting carried away with the painting. It will be two tone.
I'll post updates as work progresses.
Mike

 

[Oldseabee]

On rebuilding my headstock, the cast iron bores both front and back were beat up. Both the upper bearing bores and the bottom bores for the eccentric shaft bushings. I used a brake cylinder hone on the bottom ones and a automotive cylinder hone for the upper ones. You want your bearings to just slide in, not a force fit. And remember that as your working don't forget the belts. And those belts get in the way. If I had a clean work bench I would have built it up on the bench then installed on the lathe bed. Hope this helps the next person on their build.
Mike