Logan 1935-2 lathe

I spoke with Scott at Logan this morning about the missing parts shipment. We are waiting until this next Monday to see if they magically appear. I asked about clearances for both shift levers. He said that some folks bore them out and install bronze bushings. But he didn't think mine was that bad. So when the parts get here I'll assemble it and try it out.
Mike
 
Most of my parts showed up late Friday. So now the transmission casing has all new bushings installed. I'm still waiting for the input shaft parts LA 1217. Logan was out of stock but are making me one. Getting closer to finishing. If you need to install bushings get a bushing driver. The small gear bushings I used the correct driver head and my vice.
This driver set is sold at Autozone for 36, or Amazon for 46.
 

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I have a question about bushing instalation. On this Logan the transmission gear selection levers have no bushings. Scott Logan told me that several people have bushed these to correct the slop. The main shaft that these levers ride on is 0.67 in diameter. My new bushings o.d is 0.7520. The bushing I picked is a steel sintered with copper . If I drill out the levers to 0.75 will that be a tight enough press fit or should I use the next smallest drill?
 
You might be OK to drill it with a 0.750 drill. Take some test material and do a trial first. You may need a reamer.
 
Good quality Reamers that are adjustable are hard to find, at least for me. I have purchased and returned 2 sets. Both Reamers would not cut cast iron, they just burnished the hole. Any recommendations on a quality Reamer that won't brake the bank?
 
Good quality Reamers that are adjustable are hard to find, at least for me. I have purchased and returned 2 sets. Both Reamers would not cut cast iron, they just burnished the hole. Any recommendations on a quality Reamer that won't brake the bank?

Why does it need to be adjustable?
 
Adjustable reamers help you set up tolerance levels to tighten fitment up or to loosen it. On this Logan I could just slap it back together and run it as is. But then eventually it would wear out my new ahaft. That's why I'm installing bushings on the **** levers.
 
Adjustable reamers help you set up tolerance levels to tighten fitment up or to loosen it. On this Logan I could just slap it back together and run it as is. But then eventually it would wear out my new ahaft. That's why I'm installing bushings on the **** levers.
I understand all that. My question is why do you need an adjustable reamer for this job? If you are having trouble using them, then just buy a reamer in the size you need.
 
I just prefer adjustable reamer over a set size.
I just got finished with the 2 shift lever bushings. A good tight fit, no slop. These 2 bushings came from McMaster carr. Sintered steel with copper, oil soaked. I wiped the outside of the bushings with acetone and set them with Loctite 638 retaining compound. I let them cure for 2 days and then used my a gle grinder to remove the center section. Then finished with a file. I made sure I had the clearance needed for the small gear that fits in the center of each lever. Still waiting for one shaft. I still may need to trim a bit on yhe outside of one lever.
 

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I'm making headway on the transmission rebuild. I watched a couple you tube video, thank Tom, this helped explain it but not in enough detail. Then I watched Greg's Logan rebuild. Thanks Tom, W again. So the one thing that perplexed me is that 3.5 inch long key. No easy way to get it in there. But there is. I used my new shaft on the left side, old shaft on the right side . I also knocked out the right side bushing. And you don't need to mark the key way positions on the gears. You build up the left shaft first, 16 tooth gear and the the 2 duplex gears. Then you install the gears and spacer on the right shaft. I had to do this several times. Not much wiggle room and a tight fit. I polished both sides of every gear and the spacer and then it went together. Then I used a brass hammer and gently taped the left shaft in and the right shaft out. Then I inserted the key. Oh, and in preparation I polished the key and the keyway to insure a good smooth fit. Mine had a few burrs. Anyway, you gently push that key in while turning each gear, when the key enters the gear that gear is locked onto the shaft. Kinda like a lock tumbler, 9 gears and a spacer. As I progressed with the key I tapped the left side of the shaft to allow more key to stick out on the right side. When the key was flush with the shaft I used a second key to push the main key into place. Sounds complicated but it's not at all. Once I was sure that the spacer had the key into it far enough I pushed the shaft to the left. Then I installed my bronze bushing using a bushing driver. Made some final adjustments and the tightened the allen head lock on the spacer.
Now I'm waiting for the new main drive shaft, Scott/Logan said by end of next week I should have it. This was a real head scratcher about that PITA key.
 

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