FliesLikeABrick

Wastestream salvage addict
H-M Lifetime Diamond Member
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Oct 30, 2019
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In preparation for hauling in a bridgeport knee mill, I needed to make floor space in the metal shop at home. In doing so, my main realization was that too much valuable floor space is being consumed by storage -- two shelves, a lateral file, and various crap spilling out onto the floor in front of them.

Here's the storage stuff, on a clean day.

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Since moving here, my gut has told me that it would be worth doing something to use the vertical space.... so the solution seemed to be to build a loft/mezzanine overhead, move most of the storage up there (the card catalog with all the hardware would move elsewhere at ground level). Move the workbench along the back wall to where this storage used to be, then put the new Bridgeport where the workbench was.

The plan was to make this a freestanding platform, 10x14'. I had some large pieces of PT lumber from a neighbor, 2x 2x10x10 -- acting as rim joists across the narrow end. And also 2x 2x12x16' that I would cut down to act as rim joist/beams for the longer 14' dimension. Lastly, I had a few 2x8x10 on hand for joists, reducing how many I needed to buy.

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At the lumber yard I bought:
- 4x 6x6x12 (I wanted the support posts to extend above the platform for a railing, shelving, or other structural purposes
- 5x 2x8x10 for joists
- 6 sheets of OSB T&G subflooring

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I used a handful of online resources for span lengths and figured that all of this was the right lumber to get a few thousand pounds of distributed static load overhead. I still expect to prioritize putting any heavier items in corners or at one end where a pair of joists would be closer together (plus all the outer joists are larger lumber).


The corner posts' notches s were cross-cut and cleaned up with a chisel, aiming to get a snug fit on all of the rim joist ends. These came out surprisingly clean given that I have never done it before, and for the most part were pretty snug on the lumber.
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We dry fit the rim joist ends in the yard and cross-drilled for the 1/2" carriage bolts that would clamp everything together. All the posts and ends were labeled so that the holes would be aligned when assembling in situ.


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In the shop, assembly was ... tedious. We called over a neighbor for another set of hands because the pieces were awkward and the space wasn't large enough to assemble the framing on the floor before standing it up (even if the machines and storage weren't there)



With 3 people we were able to walk these against the wall, and put up the other pair of joists to connect across (in the final notches) and hold them in place.




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And started adding the other joists in with joist hangers and a mix of screws+nails
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Then the flooring, notched for the posts, cut to size, and slid into place
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We previously had task lighting suspended off the wall over the machines, which now was re-hung under the storage. More lights to be added once they were delivered.
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In the meantime, we needed to start getting shelves and material up top. The ground and every horizontal surface was exceedingly cluttered with everything pulled out to make room for the posts, leaving no room for the actual room reorganization that was needed.

Some of the shelves could be broken down into half-height units to fit up top (~64 inches of height). The lateral file would be nice to put up there.... but was too tight a fit to heave up, and then stand in place. It would need to be lifted up exactly vertically, and "slid" into place.

This posed a challenge, because even with 3-4 people there was no good way to lift something that large and bulky and heavy, while keeping it vertical.


What we ended up doing was going into the attic, screwing a 2x6 across a bunch of rafters, and hanging some pieces of chain down through the sheet metal ceiling. To that we attached two come-alongs. To attach the come alongs to the file, we drilled holes in the front and back of the base of the filing cabinet, and were then able to hook into it with straps to balance the load and tie to the come alongs.

This worked really well, and let us lift the file straight to the ceiling before pulling it onto the elevated platform.
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This was ultimately minor but also a big win, to not have to sell/give away this file only to replace it with more open shelves.

With that and some shelves up there, we were able to start getting stuff off the floor and move the workbench to the floorspace where the shelves used to be

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Continuing to another message in this thread for more attachments...
 
So then all that was left was finishing the diagonal bracing, adding some more lighting...

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And we had our space for the bridgeport, right? Not quite... bringing items up into the loft was turning out to be an unsafe exercise, once things got over a certain weight or volume. Even though the folding stairladder thing is handy, it still needs at least one hand to climb safely, and coming down with items is at least as sketchy as climbing.

Not to mention that some of the items I want to store are things like spare machine parts, motors, etc.... up to ~100 lbs.

So how to get them up top? Next message will be posted downthread about the Garage Door Opener Dumbwaiter

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So we had a Craigslist garage door opener on hand, which at one point I thought we might use in the shop garage but it ultimately was missing brackets for attaching to the door, and we would lose too much vertical clearance.

This was finally a good project for it.
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We have this space between the Colchester and vertical bandsaw, left open for access into each machine. It looks like the perfect spot for a small platform lift
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Laid out a bracket from some 4x6 angle iron and smaller pieces of angle for bolting to the GDO and post

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We lifted the GDO into place with a come along on the top of the platform's post, and squeezed its bracket onto the post with some clamps since it was a nice snug fit. To what degree there is any sideload or torsional load, it will be transferred mechanically -- the screws through the brackets into the post are really just under a big of shear for retaining the bracket in place

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On the ground end, I cobbled up a bracket that cross-bolted through an existing hole in the GDO sprocket assembly, and bolted to the concrete slab with anchors. I figure a decent amount of the load will translate axially through the track to the floor

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Not shown, there is also a block of wood that goes from the track to the wall mid-span, since the track does have some flex/wobble and starts to resonate/shake.

For the platform, currently it s just a piece of OSB with some supporting angle iron underneath. There is a diagonal that goes down to a set of old bearings and washers acting as rollers and guides to keep it on-track. The cross-bolt acting as an axle is 1/2-13, with some spacers I turned on the lathe. I could have made flanged spacers that also acted as guides on the track, but I put this all together in 1-2 days to keep the reorganization effort going and went with a stack-up of washers to allow for adjustment as I saw how the system behaved

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Under load during initial testing, the rollers and original guide would bind and be a bit violent going up or down over the seams in the modular track. I welded those seams up and ground them relatively flat on the front and back which was a huge improvementPXL_20230504_004031173.jpg

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I will need to keep the back of the track well-greased since the trolley/follower was never designed for this kind of torsional loading, and/or add some bearings that follow the back of the track.


I don't have many pictures but will add them later -- the initial capacity of this was around 40-45 lbs. I was hoping for closer to 100lbs so I added a 35 lbs counterweight which brought my capacity up around 90 lbs

This bracket bolts to the post at the top with two pulleys, to allow a cable coming from the top of the track follower to be supported by the counterweight that raises/lowers along the post.

I'll add pictures and a link to a video of operation a bit later today

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The top and bottom have a pushbutton.
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Overall a GDO seems perfect for this. It has safeties built in for overloading, auto-reversing controls, adjustable open/close "pressure" (force before safeties kick in), low voltage controls, and adjustable high/low positions. A slam dunk, making this a trivial 2-day project

More pics/thoughts to follow.
 
Nice upgrade!

What is that stairladder thingy?

Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk
"9.8ft Attic Loft Pull Down Ladder 12Step Wall Mounted Folding Loft Ladder Stairs"

A bit spendy but other attic-ish access stair/ladder solutions generally aren't meant to mount to a vertical face; or they're meant to mount to a vertical face adjacent to the platform (instead of you climbing over the top of it)
 
Here are pictures of the counterweight setup.

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Here is a video, lifting the 85lbs Chipmaster capstan attachment -- something I'd like stored out from underfoot but there was no way I would try getting this up the ladder


Overall closing thoughts:

  • A bit more hasty of a solution than I would have liked, but it was blocking the safe reorganization of the shop
  • Probably about 100lbs capacity without further tweaks/changes
  • The motor seems fine with being run 1-2 times per minute without getting too warm, obviously a GDO is not meant for high duty cycle
  • Eventually I'll put a different platform or basket on. This seems like a good starting point
  • Very glad we picked this up a while back! If anyone is looking to throw out a garage door opener, I highly suggest putting it up on cragslist for someone to reuse the parts or entire mechanism from
 
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