LIve Center (Choosing The Right One)

[chevydyl]

So im in need of a live center, when working with a harder metal I see that it marks up my dead center, im not using a lot of force jut kinda putting it in the hole and laying down a drop of oil, lower speeds. so im looking at some centers and im not sure if I can get a cnc live center although it still uses a 60* they are just calling it a cnc live center, will it work with my old atlas? will any live center do the job as long as you match it with the correct center/counter drill? thanks

 

[Codered741]

The "CNC" center simply describes the point style on the center. CNC points are longer, and have a step in the taper. They are helpful if you are working between centers often, and need to face your work. Other than that, any 60deg live center should work for you, as long as you have the appropriate size shank to fit your tailstock.

-Cody

 

[chevydyl]

cool thanks, yeah It appeared as though the CNC centers had more clearance available in the design, which on my setup with a BXA post I need a little more clearance near the tailstock for turning and what not, haven't done any facing with a center yet but im sure I will find the need in the future

 

[rdhem2]

Little trick I recently picked up. Use Motor Honey or similar product instead of regular oil on that dead center. It works really well and at barely one drop at a time, a can should last all but forever!

 

[Want a be machine and too]

You might want to consider a live center kit as they come in real handy for OD and ID as well, the import I bought is well worth the money and is very functional. You can also find carbide tipped dead centers that work well on most any material.

Good Luck

 

[lnr729]

While I use a live center for the most part there are times when the shortness of a dead center is an asset. For those times I have a carbide dead center that I lubricate with a bit of molly anti size.

 

[chevydyl]

Thanks for the info guys, I just ordered a Live Center in MT2, and two Carbide Tipped Dead Centers, one in MT3 and one in MT2, can you guys tell me, that for using a lathe dog do I have to have a slotted face plate or can I use one that just has slots, I have my eye one a nice 9" plate with slots and holes and threaded holes. I had an original Craftsman dead in the original box MT2 brand new, and I used it, and for whatever reason I think it was my 3 jaw chuck RunOut, and it boogered the tip I have now switched to my 4 jaw and parked the 3 jaw under the bench, it has some teeth missing from the pinion from it previous life before I got it, but I made a bar holder to hold my DI to set in the QCTP, my brother in law was pretty impressed that I could just say, I need to make a tool or a clamp and then after a little bit of work and setup, I nice tool lol

 

[pineyfolks]

You can chuck a piece of stock and turn a 60 degree point and drive the lathe dog on the chuck jaws, you will have to skim the center you made each time you remove it from your chuck to make it run true again. You can drive a dog with anything, you can even friction drive a workpiece without a dog if you are taking light cuts. Faceplates and driveplates are nice but not necessary.