Leveling a 949 Pm mill

hicap40

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Precision Matthews recommended shims, any other options?

John
 
Stefan gegedundodirflelknobon.... or whatever his name on YouTube shows a method of leveling with epoxy.

Seemed like a really pro and permanent solution, but for me it'd be way too easy for something to go wrong.
 
Thank You, just finished my shop for gunsmithing, Gotta lot to learn!

thanks again

John Hiller
 
Thank You, just finished my shop for gunsmithing, Gotta lot to learn!

thanks again

John Hiller
I just received my machines also, trammed the mill x to 0 then was upset when reading a 1 and a half thou nod over 9" on the y. Spent too much time getting that x I knew shimming the y was going to make me have to do it again...

Then I read a post on here about waiting until I did some actual cutting before worrying about 1.5 thou over 9 inches. Depending on the kind of work you do you may never see it in an actual cut. Using a 4"fly cutter with multiple passes, maybe; making passes with a ½” instead, maybe not.
Then you don't know if you mill is going to pull the head down during a cut or push it up... Summary of the story,I didn't do anything and none the wiser for the level of work I do
 
Stefan gegedundodirflelknobon.... or whatever his name on YouTube shows a method of leveling with epoxy.

Seemed like a really pro and permanent solution, but for me it'd be way too easy for something to go wrong.
Epoxy leveling is used to tram the column on a square column benchtop mill. That process is not applicable on a knee mill.
 
I just received my machines also, trammed the mill x to 0 then was upset when reading a 1 and a half thou nod over 9" on the y. Spent too much time getting that x I knew shimming the y was going to make me have to do it again...

Then I read a post on here about waiting until I did some actual cutting before worrying about 1.5 thou over 9 inches. Depending on the kind of work you do you may never see it in an actual cut. Using a 4"fly cutter with multiple passes, maybe; making passes with a ½” instead, maybe not.
Then you don't know if you mill is going to pull the head down during a cut or push it up... Summary of the story,I didn't do anything and none the wiser for the level of work I do
Why would you shim anything? A knee mill like the 949 has a knuckle head joint and all tram nod and tilt adjustments are done there.
 
Why would you shim anything? A knee mill like the 949 has a knuckle head joint and all tram nod and tilt adjustments are done there.
Not OP, I reckon you just got crossed on who's who here but I have a square column mill that is joined by bolts between the column and base. OP mentioned shimming then I would assume his was viable to shim as well. Don't know the specs of every mill or there so I thought it a safe bet.
 
Not OP, I reckon you just got crossed on who's who here but I have a square column mill that is joined by bolts between the column and base. OP mentioned shimming then I would assume his was viable to shim as well. Don't know the specs of every mill or there so I thought it a safe bet.
Got it. Guess you didn't know the PM-949 was a knee mill. I don't know what square column mill you have, but you might find this video that I produced helpful in checking and correcting the tram.

 
Lol. If I could only knew my square is actually square I'd be in business.
 
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