Leave pressure in my compressor tank, or drain it every time I shut it off?

Just a couple more thoughts. Since the observable rust always forms at the splash line/zone does this mean that the steel is not rusting (much, or as rapidly) under the water or above it? When the pressure is increased, as proposed in the above arguments it is being assumed that there is more Oxygen to accelerate the rusting process. But the amount of oxygen dissolved into water with pressure actually goes down not up. For this discussion it does not change a lot, but still it does not go up. (see plot below)

So maybe all of this is a bit more complex than is being discussed here. My guess is that impurities in the water, especially ionic, play a big role in the rates. In the marine environment is it the salts (chlorine) that determines the rates? When they salt the roads cars rust. Likewise, when you live near an ocean.

Yes, the oxygen does become depleted as rusting occurs, but when the tank is refilled it gets new oxygen. If you look at hot water heating systems the water is not changed unless there is a leak or someone drains it. The insides of steel or cast iron pipes probably rust a bit and then the rusting process shuts down. These pipes, pumps, etc lasts for decades. On the other hand hot water heaters rust out every few years as the water supply is bringing in new water with its dissolved oxygen.

Anyway, this all seems too complex to decide if the air should be drained out of the compressor tank or not and how this depends upon the use cycles. Do we need to run to the compressor at the end of each day's use and drain the air and the water or should we spend our time making more money so that we can buy a new compressor/tank?? Also, maybe we should not drain the water at all, for if the water level steadily increases and the rusting mostly occurs at the splash zone then the tank life might be greater if the splash zone was slowing rising in the tank!???


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That could be a different animal altogether.


Argon tanks contain a volume of acetone and if you go above a certain amount of use per hour per liter of some formula, you begin to pull off and burn the acetone.

This is bad juju and you want to be aware and prevent this from happening.


Looked it up, 1/7 rule.

Probably a type, but just for clarification: ACETYLENE tanks contain acetone. Argon tanks are "pure". (And the two are at radically different pressures.)

GsT
 
That could be a different animal altogether.


Argon tanks contain a volume of acetone and if you go above a certain amount of use per hour per liter of some formula, you begin to pull off and burn the acetone.

This is bad juju and you want to be aware and prevent this from happening.


Looked it up, 1/7 rule.


I think you might have mistyped Argon. You meant Acetylene. Totally differ gases. I do not think I would want to use acetylene for shield-gas for Tig welding.


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Of course I responded, before realizing a couple others had already.
 
Other thoughts to ponder. Since I live in northern Mi, we use a lot of salt on the roads in the winter time. Our cars rust out, and are a pain to work on when they get a bit older due to it. ( I just noticed my truck frame is not in very good shape, so I need to lighten my loads considerably)

In the past, I have used extra paint ( left over 2 part epoxy from mixing up a bit too much for job needed) and painted the steel truck bed on work truck. It was never painted before, so I just painted over the rust. It looked a lot better for a couple years, and least to the passing eye.

Fast forward 10 years, I just seen the truck again. The paint was bubbling away. Touch it, and several layers of rust and former metal broke away under the paint.

I figured that when I painted, I then stopped the metal from being dried out after getting wet, and thus creating a bigger rusting problem. If I had left it alone, it would not have rusted 1/2 of the metal away.


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I think you might have mistyped Argon. You meant Acetylene. Totally differ gases. I do not think I would want to use acetylene for shield-gas for Tig welding.


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Of course I responded, before realizing a couple others had already.
Somehow looking back I got the idea he was gas welding.

I don't know, had a rough weekend.

As to the part in bold, might be interesting, no?

Hey bro, we heard you like to weld.
So we put gas in your gas so you can weld while you weld.....
 
The concept of depleting the amount of oxygen in a compressor tank to inhibit rust may have some theoretical value if you didn't use your compressor for 5 years but if you use your compressor every day (or even every week) you'll never run out of available oxygen. I don't bleed down my tank because I believe it does more harm than good. It causes extra wear on the motor and pump but more importantly, it increases the pressure cycles on the tank. Most pressure vessels and even airliners are rated to last for a certain amount of cycles from atmospheric to full pressure and back again. Keeping the tank pressurized and having it only exposed to the narrow pressure range dictated by the regulator can only help it's longevity. An added bonus is that when I want air, I want it NOW and I get it NOW. Of course it's always a good idea to drain the water from the tank regularly but you only have to sacrifice a few PSI to do that. I have a ball valve on the bottom of my 60 gallon tank that I operate with my foot so I can quickly drain the water from the tank after a day's use.
 
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All,
Sorry, I’m late to the show.

Have a 30 gallon Porter Cable compressor. After 3-5 yr old, I drained, removed the cap, cleaned it out with Loctite rust remover, rinsed, full air dried. Inspected with an endoscope. Then applied an enamel rustoleum inside. Fully dried for several days. Finally, added a “sacrificial” high pressure hose to drain petcock. This way, water collects in the hose instead of on the tank floor. I just depressurize and drain it every couple months.

Any feedback, pros cons, good bad?

GordonIMG_9321.jpeg
 
All,
Sorry, I’m late to the show.

Have a 30 gallon Porter Cable compressor. After 3-5 yr old, I drained, removed the cap, cleaned it out with Loctite rust remover, rinsed, full air dried. Inspected with an endoscope. Then applied an enamel rustoleum inside. Fully dried for several days. Finally, added a “sacrificial” high pressure hose to drain petcock. This way, water collects in the hose instead of on the tank floor. I just depressurize and drain it every couple months.

Any feedback, pros cons, good bad?

GordonView attachment 482621
An auto drain is awesome with the drain hosed outside.
 
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