- Joined
- Dec 6, 2012
- Messages
- 20
I often have need to provide a repeatable work stop for shafts near 24" long. Came up with what I think is a fairly slick work stop setup, though requiring a component best sourced on eBay to keep the price somewhat reasonable.
There's a device called a TranTorque bushing, it's a multi-segment bushing that both expands and collapses, used to lock gears and sprockets to shafts primarily. This allows for adjustment for timing purposes, or avoids having to cut a key slot. What I did was make a bushing to fit the end of my 5C drawbar, into which the TranTorque bushing fits, per photo:
The machined aluminum bushing has an inner lip to keep the TranTorque from slipping in too far, and an external lip to register against the end of the drawbar. Here's the whole assembly in my Hardinge:
Quickly and easily adjustable. I made up a couple 1/2" shafts to cover various length parts so I don't have the stop rod sticking too far out the spindle. The longer rods have a collar fitted to help keep the end of the stop rod centralized in the tube.
Being as the Hardinge allows a collet in the spindle along with a chuck, I've used a rod in a 1/2" 5C collet when I need a stop for short chuck work.
When I finally get another engine lathe, I'll make another one of these to fit the spindle directly in addition to this one for collet work.
This TranTorque bushing was sourced from eBay for about $25 with shipping, it retails for something over $50. It fits a 7/8 bore and 1/2" shaft.
Also bought a larger one for the eventual direct spindle stop, with a 1-1/4" OD, 3/4 shaft.
Jon
There's a device called a TranTorque bushing, it's a multi-segment bushing that both expands and collapses, used to lock gears and sprockets to shafts primarily. This allows for adjustment for timing purposes, or avoids having to cut a key slot. What I did was make a bushing to fit the end of my 5C drawbar, into which the TranTorque bushing fits, per photo:
The machined aluminum bushing has an inner lip to keep the TranTorque from slipping in too far, and an external lip to register against the end of the drawbar. Here's the whole assembly in my Hardinge:
Quickly and easily adjustable. I made up a couple 1/2" shafts to cover various length parts so I don't have the stop rod sticking too far out the spindle. The longer rods have a collar fitted to help keep the end of the stop rod centralized in the tube.
Being as the Hardinge allows a collet in the spindle along with a chuck, I've used a rod in a 1/2" 5C collet when I need a stop for short chuck work.
When I finally get another engine lathe, I'll make another one of these to fit the spindle directly in addition to this one for collet work.
This TranTorque bushing was sourced from eBay for about $25 with shipping, it retails for something over $50. It fits a 7/8 bore and 1/2" shaft.
Also bought a larger one for the eventual direct spindle stop, with a 1-1/4" OD, 3/4 shaft.
Jon
