Lathe alignment: Solid rod vs Pipe?

Splat

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When trying to align a lathe are there any benefits to using solid rod vs pipe (say sched 40 iron pipe) when doing the "2 collars" method?
 
The last couple of guys who asked me, had better luck using aluminum. Check out my Forum Machine Scraping and Restoration as one of the readers followed my directions and took photo's. He did a great job. Tony also archived it along with the Warner Swasey alignment / leveling manual that it's principal can be used with every lathe. The 2 collar test alignment was on a Enco lathe that the head-stock rotated on a center pin. We also show a simple and sure way to align the tailstock.

For years I used leaded cold roll or aluminum. I also use thick wall tube as W&S says for there machine it is more stable, less deflection. But if you can afford it, use aluminum as it is easier of the tool bit or insert. If you have any problems or questions please write. Rich
 
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When trying to align a lathe are there any benefits to using solid rod vs pipe (say sched 40 iron pipe) when doing the "2 collars" method?

I would use solid bar stock between centers to align centers. Make sure the centers and center holes are clean. There are some good videos showing how to align the centers on this forum. Good luck
 
Thank you, guys. 2" Aluminum rod around here ain't cheap so I was hoping maybe there'd not be that much difference but alas.... I trust your advise and will see about the aluminum. Did I break that piggy bank already?:thinking: :)


PS, Richard I did see that writeup and will look for it. Great stuff and I want to thank you for taking the time to help the OP. I know it'll help me and others too. :tiphat:
 
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This is my way of aligning my tail stock.

Lurking inside a piece of bar is a "T" piece that is the only thing used to align the tail stock.

IMG_20130401_0001.jpg

I used a short (about 200mm or 8") piece of 2" chrome plated hardened rod from the scrap yard, dings and all. Centre were drilled using an old 3 jaw chuck, i.e. slightly off centre. All that remains is to identify the tip of the T piece.

Prepare a new centre in the 3 jaw chuck, i.e. set your compound rest at 60 degrees to cut a taper on some scrap that will mate with your centres. It WILL be exactly on the axis of the headstock. Support the test bar between centres. With your dial test indicator (DTI) say 12mm (1/2") from the end of the bar nearest the head stock, rotate the bar and find the high spot and mark it with a Nikko pen. Move the cross slide till the DTI reads zero. The tip of the DTI rests on the tip of the imaginary T piece that lurks within the bar. Make sure that there are no dings at the selected high spot, because that will seriously spoil your day.

Reverse the bar, move the DTI to the tailstock end and measure your marked point. All going well, it should read zero.

That's the Feral Way
cheers
Alan

IMG_20130401_0001.jpg
 
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