Kurt vs. Glacern vs. Homge

[Pcmaker]

I'll be purchasing a new vise in the future for my PM835S. Haven't decided between a 5" or 6" yet. I'm thinking the 6" might be a little too big for my mill, but then again, I haven't received my mill just yet.

Is it worth paying a very large premium for Kurt vises? I hear good things about Glacern and Homge, but I'm not sure how they compare with Kurt.

 

[hman]

I bought a Tegara 690V from Shars for my 835. Couldn't be happier. Very well made (as I've pointed out in some previous posts), large ~9" jaw opening. The vise sits nicely on the 835's table, but does stick out quite a ways forward (because of the 9" capacity). The keys supplied with the vise are too wide for the mill's table slots, but I just use a parallel between the fixed jaw and the Z ways to locate it "square with the world."

6" 690V CNC Milling Machine Vise 0.0004"

www.shars.com

PS - if you want to buy some extra 1/2-13 T-slot nuts for your 835, these from Shars will fit and work well. I just bought a couple about two weeks ago:

9/16" Slot Width 1/2"-13 T-Slots Nut

www.shars.com

 

[Pcmaker]

There seems to be quite a few good ones

 

[mksj]

There have been quite a few previous discussions on selecting a vise size and Shar's vs. Glacern vs. Kurt.

Anybody have a Glacern 6" Vise

I was wondering if anyone here has a Glacern Vise any their opinion of them. I am looking a the Kurt and the Glacern 6" vises. Of course you can save money by buying the Glacern but I want to get it right. The cheap China made vise that came with my PM935 is far from precise. Comments please.

www.hobby-machinist.com

I read a while back that the Shar's and Glacern shared the same body, but the Glacern was finished in the US. Not sure where it stands at this point, people who buy the Glacern are happy with them. The Shar's 690V seems to have stepped up the quality on this model, the difference may be small between the two. I like the new Kurt DX6, probably should have gotten one awhile back, but the vise height did not match my older vise and I wanted the ability to use two matching vises for longer work. The other nice design feature of the DX6 is it is about 2" shorter in overall length which puts it in the same length as many 5" vises. W/O a DRO the longer vise can block the Y dial, and the vise handle can interfere with the Y handle. You can use a speed handle if you do not need the additional leverage. With a DRO this is less of an issue.

The DX6 was a good deal when you could get a scratch and dent they were going for around $450, SHar's also sell them but with shipping still pricey. Seems like they are going in the $550 range shipped. As a starter vise, I would probably go with the SHar's 690V and use the additional savings and other tooling.

 

[DavidR8]

For what it's worth I have a 4" Glacern and the quality is excellent.

 

[Nutfarmer]

I have been very happy with the DX6 from Kurt. It was sold as a second and took me a while to find some very small pin hole in the casting on the bolt down lugs. If this is a second they must have a strong quality control program. Not a bad price eather.

 

[hman]

read a while back that the Shar's and Glacern shared the same body, but the Glacern was finished in the US. Not sure where it stands at this point, people who buy the Glacern are happy with them. The Shar's 690V seems to have stepped up the quality on this model, the difference may be small between the two.

The Shars Tegara vises do have one rther unique feature - the scalloped effect on the outside undersides of the "ways." The Glacern doesn't have this feature. It may well be that previous Shars vises had a common origin, but it appears that the Tegara is different.

W/O a DRO the longer vise can block the Y dial, and the vise handle can interfere with the Y handle. You can use a speed handle if you do not need the additional leverage. With a DRO this is less of an issue.

That was very true when I had a round column mill. The good news for @Pcmaker is that the mill controls are well clear of the vise handle mearly all the time. This is a "worst case," with the Y cranked all the way in.


Of course, the handle you get with the vise is the standard "knobbed stick with a hinge" style, which I don't especially like. I cross drilled a deep 3/4" socket and added a ~6" bar for everyday use. The vise holds VERY well, so I really don't need much more leverage. In case I ever do need to reef down on it, I keep a box end wrench nearby. Maybe someday I'll get a nice 3-spoke speed handle. But all is OK for now.

 

[DavidR8]

Brilliant idea @hman.
I really dislike the stupid articulating stick handle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Winegrower]

It’s easy enough to make your own handle to your own tastes, maybe like I did. And they’re all over the web for pretty cheap.

Reading this thread reminds me what we all should know:
Toolmaker’s vise: Kurt, Glacern, eBay imports, etc.
Toolmaker’s vice: Smoking, drinking, cussing, etc.

 

[Dabbler]

@hman A very good idea. Most guys over-tighten the work and don't know why they can't hold tolerance. Everything flexes at high pressures. I usually use an old combo wrench, 6 or 7 inches long...