Knocking off Sharp Internal Crests

Splat

Splat

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Mar 10, 2012
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Finally single pointed my first internal thread last night. 3/4-16 thread, about 1.125" long using an Iscar SIL0500M16 bar with a 16IL AG60 IC908 grade partial profile insert. Threaded away from the chuck towards the TS. All went well and I thought I had thought of everything, but no. How are you guys knocking the sharp crests down, especially on a small ID like for 3/4"? My thought was running a boring bar slightly across the crests. Any good, or have other ideas? Thanks.
 
Well yes, that is a good idea. So damn easy too, I should'a thought of that! :rolleyes: :D No blood involved though...no fun. ;) Thanks dpb!
 
Never heard of those, Macardoso. Checking them out now. Thanks.
 
Splat said:
Never heard of those, Macardoso. Checking them out now. Thanks.
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They're abrasive rubber products. Soft enough to take on the form of threads. Great for gentle deburring of features difficult to deburr otherwise.
 
I think I remember Joe Pie saying to write down the initial diameter then on completion set that again and take a pass, knocking off what was pushed up.
 
I have knocked off sharp crests with a flat faced boring tool using the lead screw to keep the tool in time with the thread. I do not use carbide tools for threading, instead, I use form relieved HSS threading tools made by the Bokum Tool Co., I also use their boring tools, all their tools are sharpened on top only and are quite long lived.
 
I knocked them down with my @mikey - approved Widia boring bar. :encourage: Like a barber would say, "Just a little off the top". I found an old small carbon steel bristle brush I ran in for final pass. I think I'm going to pick up some new deburring brushes down the road. Thanks guys.
 
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