- Joined
- Jul 8, 2018
- Messages
- 880
I'll probably answer this myself in the shop tomorrow afternoon, but thought I'd save some time by asking here first.
I have a Bridgeport J-series round-column mill (1955 by the serial #). It has been stuck in back gear for awhile, meaning that the clutch doesn't seem to engage when moving the clutch actuating handle forward. I was able to swtich gears prevously, so please none of those"are you sure you're moving the backgear lever as well?" responses.
Looking into this, the problem is usually caused by the holes for the clutch actuating (cam) pins being stripped. I removed the two pins this afternoon, and sure enough, one of them is stripped.
I need to rotate the bearing assembly/bushing so I can drill and tap two new holes for the cam pins, or use the backup holes if they exist (kinda hoping they do, and they're not stripped too).
My question is: can I do this without taking part the head? Maybe use a pin spanner to rotate the bushing, with spindle locked, or in back gear? I have the appropriate rebuild book (from H&W I think), and it looks like a fair amount of work if I need to take the head off.
I have a Bridgeport J-series round-column mill (1955 by the serial #). It has been stuck in back gear for awhile, meaning that the clutch doesn't seem to engage when moving the clutch actuating handle forward. I was able to swtich gears prevously, so please none of those"are you sure you're moving the backgear lever as well?" responses.
Looking into this, the problem is usually caused by the holes for the clutch actuating (cam) pins being stripped. I removed the two pins this afternoon, and sure enough, one of them is stripped.
I need to rotate the bearing assembly/bushing so I can drill and tap two new holes for the cam pins, or use the backup holes if they exist (kinda hoping they do, and they're not stripped too).
My question is: can I do this without taking part the head? Maybe use a pin spanner to rotate the bushing, with spindle locked, or in back gear? I have the appropriate rebuild book (from H&W I think), and it looks like a fair amount of work if I need to take the head off.