Internal Threading Tool And Flycutter

mattthemuppet2

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2013
Messages
4,392
couple of little projects, one intentional and one not :)

I need an internal threading tool to thread the chuck backplate I'm making, so I got a piece of scrap (ex-treadmill roller rod) which had a handily sized hole in the end and make this:
IMG_4304.JPG
the rod was 7/16 or thereabouts and turned down to fit the 3/8 bore of my tool holder. If I need a longer one I'll just make a new tool holder so I can adjust stickout. Hole was filed (poorly) square and a set screw put in the end. Cuts PVC very nicely! I need to get another project done before trying it out on steel..
IMG_4305.JPG

The unintentional project was the flycutter. I set out to make a copy of my lathe spindle nose to use to check for fit on the backplate I'm making, but cut the blank 1.5thou to small. After sleeping it off, I decided to make it into a flycutter instead, which I've been meaning to make for ages. Lots of different designs, but I liked the look of the dual cutter type, where you have a rougher and a finisher cutter. The rougher having less nose radius is a little higher and (theoretically, I need to check) a little further inboard, so it takes a chunk and then the finisher shaves the final few thou. That's the theory anyway.

finisher shown
IMG_4349.JPG

rougher shown. Cutting edges are about 1 1/8in apart, give or takeIMG_4350.JPG
cutting bits are 2 pieces of cut down 1/4in drills that some previous owner ground really weirdly. Drilled undersize with a D drill and then finished with a 1/4 reamer (1st time ever!) after drilling and threading the 8-32 set screws. Bits were a tight sliding fit, so they're not going anywhere.

Finished off by heating and dunking in oil for rust prevention. No effect on hardness as it's mild mystery steel scrap
IMG_4351.JPG

the results! Took a bit of fiddling with cutting angles to reduce chatter (far left) but I ended up with what is a very good finish (close to) for my drill press pretending to be a mill.IMG_4352.JPG

close up. Still a wee bit of chatter (don't forget, drill press+collet chuck+heavily modded HF XY vise!) but it feels smooth and looks waaaay better than any surface finish I've managed before. Once I get the treadmill motor on my drill press I'll play with speeds a bit more - this was ~800rpm and seemed to work fine in alu, but would be way too fast for steel, if I even dare to use this cutter on steel.IMG_4353.JPG

now I just need to make that spindle nose copy :)
 
Hi Matt,
Neat dual fly cutter.....I've never seen one like that!
-brino
 
thanks Brino! It's not a common design, but one of its purported benefits is less hammering as there should always be 1 tool in the cut at any time. As I'm working waaay out of my machine's envelope I figured it would be worth a shot. Less milling to make it too :)
 
I like the design of the fly cutter. I'm going to need a spot face tool for an aluminum housing and I can use your design to make one.
 
thanks guys! It's going to be way quicker to get stock square and flat with this than a 3/8 end mill :)

I never thought of that alloy, what an awesome idea. You could theoretically make a spot face tool for pretty much any size and a pilot wouldn't be hard to add either.
 
Hadn't thought of a pilot.

The hole will be plunged with a 1.75 end mill, then bored to 1.765 with my boring head. Then I need a shallow spot face 0f 2.060. Thought of getting a 2-1/8" end mill and have it ground to the correct size, but I think a spot face tool would be easy to build and much less expensive.

But my first problem is fixturing the housing up to machine it. The hole isn't at a right angle, in fact it's at a compound angle. Still thinking about how to do it. I may post a pic of it and ask for ideas.
 
also think about chatter too - at full plunge you're going to have a really wide cutting surface, just like on a countersink. Not sure how to deal with that, but something to consider
 
also think about chatter too - at full plunge you're going to have a really wide cutting surface, just like on a countersink. Not sure how to deal with that, but something to consider

Ridged setup, and turn it slow! :)
 
The spot face will only take about .050 in depth, and be .100 wide at the outside of a hole. I'll take a pic later and post it.
 
Back
Top