I made a stripper!

homebrewed

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A coax jacket-stripper, that is.....

stripper.JPG

I found some 3D printed wire strippers and tried one, but none of its alignment features was quite right for the RG174 coax I'm using. They either produced an insufficiently-deep cut, or went all the way through the wire shielding. I started working on my own but discovered that the margin between the two situations was pretty small. So rather than burning through a lot more filament I made one that includes a fine-adjustment screw. The one shown uses a 4-40 screw with a captured nut and an external locknut. Due to the ridge on the corner of the top piece, I can't see the gap but I know it's there -- because this version WILL cut through the shielding w/o the adjustment feature.

One thing I did that's not too easy to see in this photo is that the pocket for the utility knife blade is rotated clockwise by about .6 degrees. So when the top piece is pushed down it's in complete contact with the blade, no gap at either end. I did that to make it easier to calculate the depth of the "vee" needed to get the right depth of cut and just left that feature in place when I went with my fine-adjust scheme.

I was able to adjust this one to produce a perfect cut through the coax jacket. I thought it would be handy for other coax sizes so I added some text to make it easier to use the correct one, but it didn't print all that well. Good enough, though. Sez the engineer in me . I _have_ increased the size of the text since I printed this one but I don't plan on printing another one just for that.

It would be pretty easy to modify this design to use a single-edge razor blade instead of the utility knife blade. But if I do that I would change the design so the horizontal location of the razor blade isn't fixed, it can slide back & forth. This would use much more of the blade before it needs to be replaced. And yes, I wash and re-use ziplog bags, too :laughing:

I acknowledge the fact that my design isn't the prettiest in the world but it will get the job done. This one uses esun PLA+ on an old Ender 3.
 
A very good use for a 3D printer. I like it!


What is also funny is that I was playing with a coax stripper earlier before I gave it away to a friend...

Three things about that one:

1) The top is hinged on a pin
2) the end that clamps the coax over the blade has a pair of small grub screws that act to stop the clamp pushing the coax into the blade too deeply.
3) it has the option to change the "v-groove" insert for different coax sizes.

I have another one that is almost the same, but without the changeable "V-groove" insert. It is the only one I will ever need now because my days of installing TV/Cable/sky coax are over given we now never use an antenna, cable box or sky dish. I only need to strip the outer from Ethernet cable and this does the job perfectly..
 
A very good use for a 3D printer. I like it!


What is also funny is that I was playing with a coax stripper earlier before I gave it away to a friend...

Three things about that one:

1) The top is hinged on a pin
2) the end that clamps the coax over the blade has a pair of small grub screws that act to stop the clamp pushing the coax into the blade too deeply.
3) it has the option to change the "v-groove" insert for different coax sizes.

I have another one that is almost the same, but without the changeable "V-groove" insert. It is the only one I will ever need now because my days of installing TV/Cable/sky coax are over given we now never use an antenna, cable box or sky dish. I only need to strip the outer from Ethernet cable and this does the job perfectly..
I had wondered if the center of rotation of the flex joint would move as it's being flexed, which would complicate the calculation of the angle needed to get the top portion to line up with the blade. Apparently this is one of the "features" of many flex joints. But the actual range of motion is pretty small in my case, and a simple trig calculation seems to have worked out well enough.
 
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