Hydraulic Jack Release Knob

lcorley

lcorley

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I find it annoying to use the jack handle to turn the release knob on my hydraulic press. I was looking to see if there was an accessory knob available and found this article -- www.spaco.org/Press.htm. I decided I could make one, too. Here's my take.
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I turned the knob from a piece of 3/4 round HRS, about an inch long. I cut a 15 deg taper on the end and drilled the other end to fit over the valve shaft. An "S" drill gave a snug fit. I slotted for the pins on the valve with a 3/16 end mill. I added a 1/4-20 setscrew to hold it on. The handle is a 1/4-20 hex bolt with the thread shortened and the head cut off.
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I like the way this turned out. I think I'm going to do the same for my engine host and my bottle jack.
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regards,
Leon
 
Great gizmo, Leon. I've been thinking of such a device for myself. Lots of good ideas to steal. :)
 
I made one for my press a few years ago. It's one of the best mods you can do. So much better than using the jack handle.
 
:idea: Now you have done it, I made one a long time ago but it does not look that nice as I did not have a lathe or mill then. It did not bother me till now!!!!
 
I think it would be even more useful on an engine hoist. Easing that thing down with the jack handle is almost impossible.
 
I like the execution! Beautiful and sophisticated.
It begs the question though: why not unscrew the original release screw completely (with the jack inverted to keep the oil inside) and replicate its thread on a new handle? That screw just puts pressure on a ball bearing to close a port inside. Nothing fancy.
Several of the jacks I did like that had a plain and simple 3/8" or 5/16" UNF thread on the end - for which I have dies.... the rest is very simple with a lathe.
Before I had a lathe, I replaced the one on my home-made hydraulic press with a long machine bolt. I cut the threaded length to match the length of the original's thread (so the seal runs on the unthreaded part of the bolt) and filed the thread away to match the tapered end of the original. Then I cut the head off the bolt and bent the extra length (compared to the original) at nearly right angle to clear the jack base and give me enough leverage to tighten and loosen it by hand. I't still on there 35 years later and still works a treat.
 
Good info, Joe. I thought the insides were more complex than that. If all you need is a shaft with some UNF on the end, that opens up a big "design space".

I found a replacement faucet knob at Home Depot that I decided I liked better than the lever I had used before. I used a 1" round rod so it covers the pins on the valve. I like the smoother look.
knob.jpg
knob2.jpg

regards,
Leon
 
Somethimg else few people consider with bottle jacks: they don't work upside down, because the 'bottle' is the oil reservoir and the pump opening is at the bottom.
However, if you open the jack (by unscrewing the big hex around the ram at the top), the inlet hole is quite obvious. Drilling it a bit bigger and glueing a piece of tube in, these jacks can be made to work inverted. My old shop press uses a ottle jack upside down with this mod. The piston seal no longer seals perfectly and it drip occasionally now and I have had to top it up a few times over the past 5 years or so.....
I'm now actually wondering if you could glue in a flexible hose fitting and fit a flexile hose with a weight at the end - like in chainsaw fuel and oil tanks, if you could make them work in any position. Must try that too.
Cheers,
Joe
 
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