I would either take at least a 2" piece of round stock and drill it to fit the extension and bolt it on with the nut. If you don't have the means to do that then get a stack of large fender washers and do the same. Then clamp the lead screw between two pieces of hard wood in the vise and try to drive it off.
Also, you could take a piece of solid say 2" dia. steel about 6" long and drill a hole the diameter of the extension and screw through it lengthwise and bevel the hole. Slide this on before you install the end stop or fender washers, and work it as a slide hammer.
Thanks for the help. I had a length of shaft with a hole bored through it and used a old socket for the end. I was able to hammer the extension off.
The reason I was taking the shaft apart was that the nut had a lot of slop in it. I could move the table by hand about 60-70 Thousandths. After removing it the top of the threads looked like V threads. I had a nut that I started to make in the lathe and needed the shaft for a test fit before remove it. The original is brass and I made the new one out of aluminum that I had on hand. No brass and I will have to order some. I made to threading tool out of an allen wrench. Here is a picture of the old nut, new nut and inside acme threading tool. Threading went well but after the second cut I limited it to about 5 thousandths at a time and took a lot of cleanup cuts.
Rob,
The reason the nut wore is the key way on the lead screw was not properly deburred.
Use a wire wheel on a bench grinder to remove burrs and unwanted sharp edges.
Restorer
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