How to remove 'bearing locknut'

dansawyer

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The assembly is part of Bridgeport 2J BOSS head. Below is a link to some pictures of the manual assembly:
The assembly in question has been modified such that the nut is recessed about 2 1/2 inches so the nut is not accessable as it is in the manual assembly.
My question is: Is there a cleaver way to remove a recessed lock nut?
I have found a fresh section of exhaust pipe of the proper diameter. I considered trying to mill the excess material but holdong the pipe steady is difficult.
Thank you in advance, Dan
 
a spanner socket is the correct tool.
in absence of a spanner wrench or socket, screwdrivers and punches have been used to reverse the nut as well as install the nut.
look for a locking tab and mitigate its hold on the nut before proceeding to remove nut by the method of your choice
 
Take the one you have off, and visit a auto parts store, you might be lucky and find it is the same as a 4wd front axle lock nut socket.Looks like it is close at least.
 
Thank you. I have been thinking about options. The outside casing rotates independly of the nut. I was wondering if using a vise grip to hold a piece of key stock the correct dimensions would work. Has anyone tried this?
Thanks, Dan
 
I have used a drift or punch to install or remove a nut like you have. However, there is a very good chance of buggering up the nut in doing so. A better option is to make a spanner wrench to do the job properly. I have made quite a few for different applications. For a situation like you would require, I would start either a piece of pipe . If necessary, bore the pipe out to clear the shaft. If the o.d. on the pipe is too small, thread on a coupling. I would then cut the ears to fit the nut. On the other end, I have welded in a cheap socket so I can use my 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet.

You won't mess up the nut and the next time you need to service the machine, you have your custom tool.
 
Find a piece of pipe of the proper diameter and machine out some "nubs" on it. Bore a big hole in the pipe
for any needed leverage. At least that's what I would do in your situation.
 
I tried machining out the tool pattern but was unable to hold the pipe in place. I am going to go with the weld plan. I will weld on some nubs and grind them to fit. Weld metal is not the best, but hopefully it will hold if I am careful.
This machine is designed very well; every other part is built to last. In the middle of all that is a set of castle gears with poor lubrication. I do not understand this design decision.
 
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Well, the good news was I was definitely able to weld and file a tool. The bad news is the tool sheered the edges of the nut. The nut is relativley soft. I ended up drilling a 1/2 in hole to gain access. I was them able to to use a punch to turn it. The hole is in a place that will not affect the part. Not a perfect solution, but one that works.
 
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