How to make a Sherline end mill holder?

ericc

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Hi. I just bought a used Sherline mill, and it came without any end mill holders. I looked at their website, and they cost $36 or more each. There is a little warning on the description saying that making these holders is harder than it appears, and that is why they cost so much. This is due to the way that they are attached to the spindle. There is no register, and concentricity comes entirely from the precision of the threads. I guess that the face of the collar enforces parallelism only. So, the threads must be cut to the exact depth. I am not too familiar with precision threading. On all the backplates for my South Bend lathe, I pay close attention to bore the register on size. Straightforward, simple, and they fit well. How bad can the runout be relying only on the threads? What would be the standard way of making such a holder? Would I first build a go gauge based on wire measurements of the actual Sherline spindle threads? How much closer would this get things?

I did a forum search, and there was not too much information, except possibly to bore the final diameter on the mill itself with a boring bar stuck in a vise. Unfortunately, the thread did not clearly indicate how much better this would be. In fact, it appeared to do a worse job.
 
Not a direct answer to you question but I've been using an ER20/MT1 collet holder in my Sherline mill.
It runs dead true but I lose some milling capacity due to the collet nut extending out quite far. Hasn't been a problem for me so far and I also use this chuck and collets on my Sherline lathe when I need better concentricity than the 3-jaw allows.
I wonder if TAIG offers better pricing or designs of spindle accessories?
 
I wonder if it might be worth buying just one of their holders in a common size like 3/8" just to see how they are made?
 
Boy, I had to dig out stuff that I hadn't used for years (MicroLux/Micromark Micro-Mill, a Sherline Clone, and it's tooling). Here is a comparison of the end mill holders I have that will "work" (to one degree or another) on your Sherline:

Micro-Mill A2Z Long End Mill Holder Line rfs.jpg
A2Z Long 3/4-16 End Mill Holder, 53mm from bottom of head; similar to Sherline design, made by A2Z, no longer available (sorry)


Micro-Mill A2Z Short End Mill Holder Line rfs.jpg
A2Z Short 3/4-16 End Mill Holder, 42mm from bottom of head


Micro-Mill ER-16 1MT Collet Chuck Line rfs.jpg
ER16 MT1 Collet Chuck, 60mm from bottom of head


Micro-Mill ER-16 3|4-16 Collet Chuck Line rfs.jpg
ER16 3/4-16 Collet Chuck (available from TAIG; 1045ER), 53mm from bottom of head


Micro-Mill Taig Collet Nut Line rfs.jpg
TAIG 3/4-16 Collet Nut for 1040 Collets (only go up to 5/16", and not a perfect fit in the 1MT spindle, but will work, but only hold a short portion of an end mill), 29mm from bottom of head


The best bang for your buck is going to be the TAIG 1045ER: you get the flexibility of ER16 collets (up to 3/8") and it costs less than the Sherline End Mill Holders.

Sherline does recommend "truing" the face of the spindle since their attachments use "both the threads and the shoulder face" for locating (see attached).
 

Attachments

  • truing_spindle_face_inst.pdf
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I don't know if this will answer any of your questions but here is a new 3/8" endmill holder. I put it on the spindle of my 4400 lathe with an indicator to show what the runout looks like. The holder registers on the spindle end of the holder and centers on the threads.
3079.jpg


Eric
 
Hi. Thank you for the suggestions. I could just buy an end mill holder from Sherline, and I'm sure it would be just fine, but I'm afraid that if I look at it, I would not be able to tell what made it fine. Maybe a really tight thread? Seems like I should just try a few experiments to see if I can get good results. Even a messed up one should be useful. But it would be nice to have some sort of rational way to get the result.
 
I faced the same dilemma about four years ago. I too thought about making one but decided just to buy one and save myself the hassle. I've used it many times without any issues. It really is a good quality precision product (much like the whole product line). I never regretted the decision FWIW.
 
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