[How-To] How to make a not so straight hole straighter and maybe slightly larger

WobblyHand

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Thought I'd make a couple of bushings to hold some "undersized" boring bars in my AXA-4D boring bar holder. I have a 6mm and a, 3/8" carbide shank boring bars and would like to use them. Previously, I made a bushing or sleeve for my 1/2" carbide shank bar. Thought I would basically do the same thing, mount a 3/4" diameter 12L14 rod in my AXA-4D and use a drill mounted in the chuck to drill through the rod. Then ream the hole to size.

Except this time, things didn't go so well. For the 3/8" bar, I drilled through the rod using an 11/32" drill, followed by a 23/64" drill. Then reamed the hole to 3/8". One problem, my boring bar won't pass through the hole. My boring bar mics at 0.3746", the reamer is 0.3750". I was able to pass a short dowel (1.25") through the hole without any problem. The dowel mics at 0.3752". But the carbide bar hangs up around 3/4 of the way through. This is independent of which way I start the carbide bar. What is odd, is that I made a bushing for this same boring bar for my mini-lathe and used the same reamer last year. The boring bar just nicely slipped into the bushing. The difference is that the bushing was narrower wall, and it was shorter, since the OXA-4 is smaller.
PXL_20220418_212609191.jpgPXL_20220418_212654000.jpg
The hole doesn't come out the same place in the rod on the back, but that could be that the boring bar holder has a tilt, or the drill wandered. Having learned my lesson last time, I have not yet slitted the bushing.

I could use an oversized reamer 0.376, or ? If the hole is crooked, will the reamer follow the hole? Is there a way to fix this? If not, what could I do next time to get better results?

I'm just thinking about doing this for a 6mm bar and shaking my head. How can I drill a 3" long straight hole with an even smaller drill?

Looking for some ideas, or helpful suggestions.
 
I'm no expert on any of this , so I would just cut the bushing in half length wise ( bet it goes thru ) . ;) These are bushings , these bushings do not have to be made within .00001 tolerance because it makes no difference . Run an oversized reamer thru the hole and use the bushing after slotting it . It's fun trying to make everything perfect , I get it ........................but when perfection is not needed , take the easy way home .
 
If you want to correct a not straight hole you must use any of the following: plunge with an endmill, use a jig bore reamer, use a boring bar. Endmills, jig bore reamers, and boring bars don't follow the existing hole. Trying to re-drill or re-ream an existing hole doesn't work because they both follow the existing hole.
Alternatively you can put a center on each end of your not straight hole and then turn the OD to true it up to the ID.
Making split bushings avoids this problem all together.
Also you mention your bushing has a narrow wall. Depending on what material you used for the bushing, once you cut out the middle and released it from the chuck the whole bushing distorted slightly and enough to obstruct the boring bar.

In order to drill a straight hole use this process: center drill or spot drill enough to accommodate the web of your first drill. Begin drilling with a very short drill, screw machine length. Progress to longer and longer drills as needed. Maintain good chip evacuation.
Alternatively: Center drill, drill half way. Flip workpiece, center drill and drill half way. Ream from one side.
 
I'm no expert on any of this , so I would just cut the bushing in half length wise ( bet it goes thru ) . ;) These are bushings , these bushings do not have to be made within .00001 tolerance because it makes no difference . Run an oversized reamer thru the hole and use the bushing after slotting it . It's fun trying to make everything perfect , I get it ........................but when perfection is not needed , take the easy way home .
If I had an oversized reamer, I'd use it. But no oversize reamers in my shop. I can get one, since it is a common size. Last time I ran into a similar problem, (hole too small) I had slit the hole and couldn't find a spiral reamer in the correct size. Ended up having to lap the hole. Ended up ok, but took way too long.

It's funny, thought I was taking the easy way home. It worked before. Astoundingly well, which is why I tried it again. Apparently not all that repeatable :(
 
May be the carbide bar is not straight ?
Found a longer 3/8" dowel pin, it gets stuck as well. Think the hole isn't quite straight. Could be from operator error, or the drill hit something and started to deviate from straight. It happens.
 
Run the reamer through again with a heavier oil. Slitting could also open it up.
 
If I had an oversized reamer, I'd use it. But no oversize reamers in my shop.
@mmcmdl is right, it doesn't have to be extremely accurate; I'd pull out a rattail file and
see if sighting down the bore suggested a region that needs attacking. Alternately, hones can be
made with ease, using a hammer blow on a mild steel rod; chucked in a hand drill.
Abrasive paste doesn't remove much, or fast, but there's not much removal required here..
 
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