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How to Face Thin Discs?
- Thread starter Phil3
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2011
- Messages
- 786
I have a small flat center (forget what they're called - but they're used for pushing with the tailstock). Installed into the headstock it's perfect for what you want to do. I just use some CA glue to attach the part to the flat. You could do the same if you made a sub plate for your face plate. Heat releases the CA glue and you're good to go...
John
John
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2011
- Messages
- 8,016
I use aluminum soft jaws. Quicker in and out that most other methods. Another possibility is to use an emergency 5C collet and bore it same as you would soft jaws.
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2011
- Messages
- 3,613
I like Tony, have a set of soft jaws. I cut 3 different diameters in the jaws. 4", 3" and 2" all at .100" deep. I also slightly openned the jaws and clipped the corners of each to allow sizes in between. I used a 3/4" rod and a 3/8" rod to close the jaws on when I machined the pockets/recesses.
I have either stamped the disc out and then faced one side, flipped it over and faced the opposite side. Or other times I have to roll the blank out of thicker material to near size, cut it out and then face to thickness.
As my soft jaws are pie shaped, I set them up to allow enough room to slip in a micrometer to measure without taking the part out until done or ready to flip over. Usually I see about .001" or less to parallel between sides. I do not need better in the application that the parts are used for.
Pierre
I have either stamped the disc out and then faced one side, flipped it over and faced the opposite side. Or other times I have to roll the blank out of thicker material to near size, cut it out and then face to thickness.
As my soft jaws are pie shaped, I set them up to allow enough room to slip in a micrometer to measure without taking the part out until done or ready to flip over. Usually I see about .001" or less to parallel between sides. I do not need better in the application that the parts are used for.
Pierre
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2011
- Messages
- 8,016
If they need to be near dead-on flat and parallel, no sub for a surface grinder.
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2011
- Messages
- 4,139
I use pot collets,too. I have them in 5C type. They run up to 6" diameter. They are most useful for holding ivory lids for little pill boxes,where you want an absolute minimum of loss in the material. I angle the gripping surfaces of the chuck inwards several degrees,and can hold onto a piece of ivory with jaws that are only 1/32" deep.
Of course,most do not have these pot chucks. You can,at the least,put a piece of metal in your lathe,and face it off flat. Then,super glue your thin piece to it. Remove the piece with some careful heat from a gas torch-no need to burn the glue: it will come off and melt with the right amount of heat. Then,soak the rest off in acetone. Slow,but it does work.
Since I sometimes help my wife make master models for her jewelry business,I often have odd shapes you just cannot clamp. I super glue them down on a pre milled block of metal held in the vise in my vertical mill. Than,either pop them loose,or if too thin and delicate,heat the piece loose. Your pre milled gluing surface needs to be pre milled to insure a parallel surface(to the cutting action) to glue the work piece to. Same applies to holding thin work in the lathe. Pre face the holding surface.
Of course,most do not have these pot chucks. You can,at the least,put a piece of metal in your lathe,and face it off flat. Then,super glue your thin piece to it. Remove the piece with some careful heat from a gas torch-no need to burn the glue: it will come off and melt with the right amount of heat. Then,soak the rest off in acetone. Slow,but it does work.
Since I sometimes help my wife make master models for her jewelry business,I often have odd shapes you just cannot clamp. I super glue them down on a pre milled block of metal held in the vise in my vertical mill. Than,either pop them loose,or if too thin and delicate,heat the piece loose. Your pre milled gluing surface needs to be pre milled to insure a parallel surface(to the cutting action) to glue the work piece to. Same applies to holding thin work in the lathe. Pre face the holding surface.