High Speed Steel Black Oxide Reduced ½ Shank Drill Bits (lot of 5) - $40 (Roseville, CA)

But Dad......
OK, I'll bite.
If not in a chuck, How would/should one hold a S&D drill?
 
But Dad......
OK, I'll bite.
If not in a chuck, How would/should one hold a S&D drill?
Why in a collet, of course. When I worked for Fred, holding an S&D drill in a chuck was a firing offense. Not only can it ruin the drill, if it's a self tightening chuck, it can damage that too.
 
I guess I'll be fired. I mostly use them on the lathe to start a hole big enough to get my boring bar into, and do not have collet capability in the tail stock. All of my S&D drills have 3 healthy flats for the chuck to get a good grip, there is not much left for a collet to grab. The only self tightening chuck I own is on my Dewalt cordless drill.
 
The flats make a big difference. Ideally, a taper shank drill is the weapon of choice in a lathe, but it's hard to get anything very large for a smaller lathe. I bought a couple of the largest taper shank drills I could find (and afford) for the #2 MT on my Heavy 10L. I also bought the largest step drill I could find, though they are depth limited. Ultimately, they are your tools and you will undoubtedly be more careful than the guy who spun the drills in the CL ad.
 
I did notice that the ones in the add do NOT have the flats for a chuck to hold on to. When those used to be round they may have been best used in a collet.

Being spun that bad and he says they a very sharp, the black oxide is still on the ends so they have not been resharpened.
 
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