Here we go some issues operating my Monarch 10EE

[wpala]

Hi Gang
So after some tinkering with the motor to rewire to 230 in my RPC I finally got her going she Lives motor sound smooth ) and runs strong no chatter or anything like that, however some other issues came up I'm having problem engaging power feed on the apron it seems that the black Knob (see photo)
turns the threading on/off which seams to works OK, but I can't engage the pull-push knob while the threading knob is off to engage the power feed, once the black nob is ON the push -pull knob moves back and forth and you can engage power feed but longitudinal feed will not move because the threading is engage and it would definitively break something if I would leave it on that is one issue second my knob for feed selection just above the gear dial it is very hard to switch I have to move the spindle back and forth in my taste too much to get her engage, if anyone has any ideas I would very welcome them
Thanks
Paul

 

[Cal Haines]

Engaging Feeds and Threads on a 10EE

Hi Gang
So after some tinkering with the motor to rewire to 230 in my RPC I finally got her going she Lives motor sound smooth ) and runs strong no chatter or anything like that, however some other issues came up I'm having problem engaging power feed on the apron it seems that the black Knob (see photo)
View attachment 60065
turns the threading on/off which seams to works OK, but I can't engage the pull-push knob while the threading knob is off to engage the power feed, once the black nob is ON the push -pull knob moves back and forth and you can engage power feed but longitudinal feed will not move because the threading is engage and it would definitively break something if I would leave it on...

The way it's supposed to work is that rotating the black lever right so that I points to 3 O'clock will close the half nuts on the leadscrew. You can only close the half nuts if: a) the thread dial is at one of the index lines, indicating that the leadscrew is lined up with the nuts; and, b) the feed-direction plunger is in the center position. The black lever and the plunger are mechanically interlocked so that you can't select both feed and thread, for the reason that you state. If you're only able to move the plunger with the half-nuts engaged, something is very wrong.

The interlock mechanism is very simple: it's just a slider with a diagonal slot in it. There is a pin that moves down as the black lever rotates. The pin runs in the diagonal slot in the slider, pushing the slider left towards the headstock as it moves along the slot. If the plunger is in the center position, the slider moves into a slot cut in the plunger shaft, locking the plunger in place so that feeds can’t be selected. The slider can't move left if the plunger is out of position (i.e. selecting one of the feed directions) and in turn keeps the half nuts from closing. The only thing that I can think of is that the slider got put in upside down (I don't know if that's even possible).

If you haven't had the saddle and apron off of the machine, now is the time to do it. You need to clean out the worm gear sump and inspect the saddle oiler system at a minimum.

that is one issue second my knob for feed selection just above the gear dial it is very hard to switch I have to move the spindle back and forth in my taste too much to get her engage, if anyone has any ideas I would very welcome them ...

It sounds like you are referring to the feed/thread-direction selector on the headstock. The thread gears engage the spindle via a "dog clutch" with one tooth (or is it two, I forget). You have to line up the male and female elements to get a clutch to engage and that only happens once in a full revolution of the spindle. So, engaging threads often means rotating the spindle most of a revolution. Take the top cover off of the headstock and watch the mechanism while you play with it; everything will make perfect sense.

Cal

 

[wpala]

Re: Engaging Feeds and Threads on a 10EE

Hi Cal
Thank You for the response and I think you are spot on with the me messing up the assembly of the half nut and the plunger switch I remember that they were working together I must have reversed the slider or something will have to take apart the apron again and fix that I cleaned all the stuff inside the sump and disassembled most of the pieces, one more question there is a lever beside each cross slide and apron wheels that moves up and down this engages the direction of the feed -right ? up is forward and down is backwards? I know on my standard modern lathe I have to stop the lathe and switch the direction of the power feed screw to do that but I think on this lathe those leavers change the direction? Anyway thank You for all your help once everything is in order I will post the video

Paul

The way it's supposed to work is that rotating the black lever right so that I points to 3 O'clock will close the half nuts on the leadscrew. You can only close the half nuts if: a) the thread dial is at one of the index lines, indicating that the leadscrew is lined up with the nuts; and, b) the feed-direction plunger is in the center position. The black lever and the plunger are mechanically interlocked so that you can't select both feed and thread, for the reason that you state. If you're only able to move the plunger with the half-nuts engaged, something is very wrong.

The interlock mechanism is very simple: it's just a slider with a diagonal slot in it. There is a pin that moves down as the black lever rotates. The pin runs in the diagonal slot in the slider, pushing the slider left towards the headstock as it moves along the slot. If the plunger is in the center position, the slider moves into a slot cut in the plunger shaft, locking the plunger in place so that feeds can’t be selected. The slider can't move left if the plunger is out of position (i.e. selecting one of the feed directions) and in turn keeps the half nuts from closing. The only thing that I can think of is that the slider got put in upside down (I don't know if that's even possible).

If you haven't had the saddle and apron off of the machine, now is the time to do it. You need to clean out the worm gear sump and inspect the saddle oiler system at a minimum.


It sounds like you are referring to the feed/thread-direction selector on the headstock. The thread gears engage the spindle via a "dog clutch" with one tooth (or is it two, I forget). You have to line up the male and female elements to get a clutch to engage and that only happens once in a full revolution of the spindle. So, engaging threads often means rotating the spindle most of a revolution. Take the top cover off of the headstock and watch the mechanism while you play with it; everything will make perfect sense.

Cal

 

[Cal Haines]

Re: Engaging Feeds and Threads on a 10EE

... one more question there is a lever beside each cross slide and apron wheels that moves up and down this engages the direction of the feed -right ? up is forward and down is backwards? I know on my standard modern lathe I have to stop the lathe and switch the direction of the power feed screw to do that but I think on this lathe those leavers change the direction? ...

Hi Paul,

The levers just engage the feed clutches; either up or down will engage. The feed direction is set by the plunger. (It's possible to have both feed clutches engaged at the same time.) The levers have an eccentric that pushes (pulls? I forget) the clutch into engagement. The feed-rod always rotates the same direction, relative to the spindle; feed direction is controlled by the apron. Thread direction is controlled by the clutches in the headstock.

Cal

 

[wpala]

Re: Engaging Feeds and Threads on a 10EE

Hi Cal

So it was relatively easy fix once the apron was off an yes I did reversed the little square width diagonal slot so all that was fix thanks again for guiding me to that

Next thing I will try to attempt to fix a tachometer if you have any pointers for that it would be much appreciated

Paul

Video is coming

Hi Paul,

The levers just engage the feed clutches; either up or down will engage. The feed direction is set by the plunger. (It's possible to have both feed clutches engaged at the same time.) The levers have an eccentric that pushes (pulls? I forget) the clutch into engagement. The feed-rod always rotates the same direction, relative to the spindle; feed direction is controlled by the apron. Thread direction is controlled by the clutches in the headstock.

Cal

 

[Cal Haines]

Re: Removing 10EE tachometer

...
Next thing I will try to attempt to fix a tachometer if you have any pointers for that it would be much appreciated
...

Hi Paul,

I tried unsuccessfully to remove my tach. I found out after the fact that the trick is to lever against the mounting studs to pop it loose. It's held in place by the brass gear on the shaft and two studs, at 6 and 12 O'clock, with lock washers and nuts. The trick is getting the nuts and washers off and back on without loosing them in the bottom. I wound up using safety wires and magnets to maneuver the nuts into place. You can read about my exploits here: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/monarch-lathes/tac-removal-ee-99172/

Cal