Help with cutting linear index lines

S

spikec

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Hi guys, rather new to this hobby/passion and am a little stumped on how to do something. I am building Steve Bedair's ball turner for my 8x14 and wanted to put index marks on the turret to help position the cutter, like this:

PAUL2.JPG

My searches have turned up nothing probably because I don't know the proper nomenclature for these lines. Are these lines cut with an ultra-small end mill? Some kind of scriber? Any help you could give would be much appreciated!

PAUL2.JPG
 
A bona-fide engraving tool is simply a low angle cone ground on a carbide or HSS round, and then half of it ground away, right on centerline. You could do it with 60°, and not have the lines too broad.
 
You can also get pretty good results with a HSS tool ground to 60degrees (kinda like a threading tool). Here is an example of a special tool

http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/Linerator.html

I have also done this by mounting the threading tool in a boring bar, mounting the boring bar in a collet in my milling machine, and then using the quill feed to to feed the tool into the work. You can set the depth stop to make lines at different lengths. It works basically like a shaper. You only need to go about 5-10 thousands deep to get a nice clean line.
 
Yep, all depends on what equipment you have on hand. Several ways to go. Rotary tool or fixed. Either can do a nice job.
 
Yes on an old broken 3/16 or 1/4" end mill ground to look like a threading tool. Ive got a 3/16 that I have scribed hundreds of lines with without ever even touching it up. Probably be wise to experiment on a piece of scrap first to get the 'feel' of it - playing with the depth you like, and figuring out a method to get it stopped at the same place every time, etc.
 
I ordered an engraving bit, 30deg x .3mm diameter. I'll see how it works, but I think it'll be too small. I'm sure it'll come in handy for something down the road...

I kinda like the old manual 'scrape' method with a threading bit. Kinda reminds me of cutting internal keyways on the lathe, but looks like a lot less elbow grease!
 
I've cut a few dial graduations with a simple point ground on a 1/4" broken centerdrill. Used the mill with a susperspacer to hold the dial. With a DRO, it's easy to get the lengths right. Just dragged them on there. Using the depth stop, they are simple to get consistent, or deeper on the major grads if you want.
 
We have switched form the standard 90 deg engraving tool to a 1/16" ball engraving tool. The round tip holds up a lot longer. High rpm and very light feed going only about .003" deep.
 
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