Help W/ Pm932 Motor Wiring Or 220v Motor Box

[kennyv]

Posting this Q Hoping to get a quick reply .

Recently purchased my PM932PDF had some issues with start/ Run capacitor in one that crapped out . One actually exploded / leaked . Anyways was sent a new cap installed than (both) and isolated that indeed it was now the motor itself . I had a rumble rattle sound internally which prob overloaded the run cap.

Well Long story short Matt sent out new motor on Friday . Last night carefully marked all wiring from old to new . Hooked up Motor works great back up and running . (So I thought so) . As soon as I tried reverse blew the breaker . Looked over re inspected my wiring sequence cant see where I went wrong . I do suspect maybe one wire is not the same position from old to new wiring terminal block.

I thought I was 100% when marked em but now im at a hault not gona guess need to know exact positions of motor wires to terminal block.The motor to terminal block are the ones in question. If they are correct than I must assume the factory wiring to terminal block may be incorrect for reverse counter clock wise position . Else the factory install of caps . But they look same as original .

If anyone has a 932 Mill or motor box with same similar wiring block Please have a quick look and reply otherwise im at a stand still till I get this sorted out from PM . Thanks guys


Here is an actual pic because the manual shows a dif pic of terminal block Ok there are 2 black and 2 red wires coming into motor box and one ground. The leads are marked as followed

Black U1 and U2
Red Z1 and Z2
right now I have Black U1 and U2 wired to terminal block U1 and U2.
And Z1 and Z2 motor wires wired to V1 and W2 Note: ( thats the way it was wired on old motor) doesn't make sense BC the factory installed motor wire is installed on W1 lead??


Now as far as terminal block they are marked.
From Top 3 positions from L to -R are ( W1 V1 U1)
the bottom 3 positions L to R are (V2 U2 W2)
see pics for reference someone please be kind enough to have a look if ya have the time

TIA
Kenny v

 

[kennyv]

If anyone reading willing to help ,ill try to be clearer in what I wrote b4
PL look at first pic ( original post) In my sketch the colors represent black and red wires in their position
Btw there are 2 black and 2 red wires coming into motor box and one ground. The leads are marked as followed
Black U1 and U2
Red Z1 and Z2


right now I have the Black to U1 and U2 wired to terminal block MARKED U1 and U2
and Red Z1 and Z2 motor wires wired to V1 and W2 Note: ( thats the way it was wired on old motor)
doesn't make sense BC the factory wires coming FROM the control box has one wire installed on W1 lead??
anyone ? something don't jive
These two pics show original wired box and the new motor with connections made on terminal block
If someone WITH Similar term block and 220V Single phase motor would have a look and report back it will be settled once and for all . THANKS

 

[TomS]

If anyone reading willing to help ,ill try to be clearer in what I wrote b4
PL look at first pic ( original post) In my sketch the colors represent black and red wires in their position
Btw there are 2 black and 2 red wires coming into motor box and one ground. The leads are marked as followed
Black U1 and U2
Red Z1 and Z2


right now I have the Black to U1 and U2 wired to terminal block MARKED U1 and U2
and Red Z1 and Z2 motor wires wired to V1 and W2 Note: ( thats the way it was wired on old motor)
doesn't make sense BC the factory wires coming FROM the control box has one wire installed on W1 lead??
anyone ? something don't jive
These two pics show original wired box and the new motor with connections made on terminal block
If someone WITH Similar term block and 220V Single phase motor would have a look and report back it will be settled once and for all . THANKS

View attachment 110572 View attachment 110573

I'll take a picture of my PM-932 wiring when I get home later tonight.

Tom S

 

[TomS]

I'll take a picture of my PM-932 wiring when I get home later tonight.

Tom S

Just remembered I took pictures a while back. I changed out the power feed cable and unfortunately the wires are tagged on the other end. Still need to go to the shop to get the tag identification so you can see which are Z1, Z2, U1 and U2. I attached a high resolution picture so you should be able to zoom in and make out the terminal coding.

Tom S

 

[TomS]

Just remembered I took pictures a while back. I changed out the power feed cable and unfortunately the wires are tagged on the other end. Still need to go to the shop to get the tag identification so you can see which are Z1, Z2, U1 and U2. I attached a high resolution picture so you should be able to zoom in and make out the terminal coding.

Tom S

View attachment 110578

Okay. Got the wire tag identification. Brown = Z1. White = Z2. Black = U1. Red = U2. Hope this gets you up and running.

Tom S

 

[kennyv]

Thanks Tom I know this thing by heart by now and see the differences . Here is what I suspect my old term block had internal jumpers which is how you get the directional change CW/ CCW.
The new terminal block has external jumpers PIC #2 most likely not correct positions or Pos one of the two internal wires for reverse direction is mislabeled. ( I did not touch or change them)
On a cursory look here is what I noted . You have Brn ,white, black and red respectively for external motor wires . I have the 2 reds and 2 blacks. (No big deal) Btw I did a few tests and isolated CW from CCL wires.

After looking at yours I have something to compare . Now from what I see the motor internal wiring is correct ( or similar ) my old internal motor wires are grey and Yel the new motor wires are green and blue . Which looking at your term block your internal motor wires would represent the blue and the brown wires .
Now here is where it gets tricky not knowing where the jumpers are internally IMO know way of knowing if mine are correct ( already thought of swapping with my original wont work either)

here's another difference . ill explain Looking at the way yours is wired u have to rotate your term block 90 deg ( no big deal ) now also note that your V1 and W2 are on opisite sides . Where as your W1 and V2 or opposite as well . Note if I am correct those are the leads that have your caps wired to . Mines are the W1 V1 V2 side . If I lost ya by now don't worry your pic was helpful . Thanks for taking the time. Ill take a 2nd look to see if im missing anything but I don't think so . Thanks again

 

[TomS]

Thanks Tom I know this thing by heart by now and see the differences . Here is what I suspect my old term block had internal jumpers which is how you get the directional change CW/ CCW.
The new terminal block has external jumpers PIC #2 most likely not correct positions or Pos one of the two internal wires for reverse direction is mislabeled. ( I did not touch or change them)
On a cursory look here is what I noted . You have Brn ,white, black and red respectively for external motor wires . I have the 2 reds and 2 blacks. (No big deal) Btw I did a few tests and isolated CW from CCL wires.

After looking at yours I have something to compare . Now from what I see the motor internal wiring is correct ( or similar ) my old internal motor wires are grey and Yel the new motor wires are green and blue . Which looking at your term block your internal motor wires would represent the blue and the brown wires .
Now here is where it gets tricky not knowing where the jumpers are internally IMO know way of knowing if mine are correct ( already thought of swapping with my original wont work either)

here's another difference . ill explain Looking at the way yours is wired u have to rotate your term block 90 deg ( no big deal ) now also note that your V1 and W2 are on opisite sides . Where as your W1 and V2 or opposite as well . Note if I am correct those are the leads that have your caps wired to . Mines are the W1 V1 V2 side . If I lost ya by now don't worry your pic was helpful . Thanks for taking the time. Ill take a 2nd look to see if im missing anything but I don't think so . Thanks again

Wish I could give you more help but when it comes to electricity I'm a novice. Here's another picture of the junction box taken further away. It might be helpful to trace the cap wiring.

Tom S

 

[Plas62]

I had a similar issue late last year with my PM932 when the motor went out. Below is the text of the email exchange I had with Matt. I have also attached the pic's I sent to Matt when we were exchanging emails on the issue. Hopefully this info will help you out. Once I went through the things described in the email thread below the new motor worked fine. Also just to note my mill is a PM932M and does not have power down feed.

Jim

Email Thread on motor replacement issue.

Matt - I went to hookup the replacement motor that you shipped to me and I noticed differences in how the motors are wired internally. I stopped until I could get some advise from you, also I have not applied power to the new motor yet. I also verified that the data plates on both the old motor and new motor match.

I have attached pictures showing the wiring on the old motor and new motor. I am not an electrician, but this does not look right. Please get back with me as soon as you can.


Hi Jim,
I would take that extra jumper off, for sure.

So it looks just like the yellow and the black wires are switched, right? The Chinese sometimes change things around on me, makes it hard.

I would switch the yellow and black, so its the same as the old one, and give it a shot. Just try it real quick, it should work like that though.



Matt - I pulled the jumper and swapped the wires. Powered it up and it ran backwards. I then swapped wires U1 and U2 and the rotation was correct with the switch. Look's like I could have just pulled the jumper on it and been OK.

Tomorrow I do some milling with and see how it does under a load.

Thanks for your help and I appreciate you replying back to me on the weekend.

 

[kennyv]

Got it ..My wiring was fine BOTH jumpers NOT needed fig out this AM before reading this post.
After viewing dif wiring diagrams on 220 V single phase terminal blocks I came to the conclusion that it was simple stupid . Last night I had isolated the wires from forward to reverse CW CCW . Than Spent some time thinking about what is missing in the scenario . My stumbling block was the new terminal block was pre wired with jumpers. I had (assumed) pictured the old one had internal jumpers leads . Than as I opened the power box and traced the wires from the F/Rev switch it dawned on me that the reverse polarity HAS to be done with the switch not at the terminal block. Am I correct with that statement ?

I kinda knew it but wanted to TEST it first with a continuity test with power off first. The Prob was I had spent some time reading on CNC forum a post that went into detail of fella explaining wiring and another fella explaining in detail how to test isolating entire circuitry.. Before I lay my head down the jumper issue came to mind but only needed confirmation before I set out to check switch and ask Q's isolation the proper circuitry. Than I looked at the way the circuit flowed many times at the terminal block knowing everything else and those dang jumper leads made no sense . Lota Fun solving the puzzle when ya have 2 extra parts that dont belong ayy?

Long story short She's up running fine now . However I do have one Question still unanswered . Why does the diagram on the new power box show Caps wired across W2 and V2 and W1 and W2 when in actuality they are not in those positions .. Is that correct ? Are those are 2 different options WITHOUT a Forward and reverse switch in mind ?

Thanks for all those who lent a hand and those who guessed thanks for your 2 bits of extra shenanigans as well … it was fun and a learning experience . Gota laugh at our assumptions and ask the right Q's . Ok shes running im gona ask this again and for the 2nd time on another forum . I want to drain the original gear box oil . The manual is NOT clear . My Q is Mobil DTE heavy/Med same as 80W90 auto gear oil? As I want to purchase the gear oil and change it before using my new mill thanks.

 

[TomS]

Got it ..My wiring was fine BOTH jumpers NOT needed fig out this AM before reading this post.
After viewing dif wiring diagrams on 220 V single phase terminal blocks I came to the conclusion that it was simple stupid . Last night I had isolated the wires from forward to reverse CW CCW . Than Spent some time thinking about what is missing in the scenario . My stumbling block was the new terminal block was pre wired with jumpers. I had (assumed) pictured the old one had internal jumpers leads . Than as I opened the power box and traced the wires from the F/Rev switch it dawned on me that the reverse polarity HAS to be done with the switch not at the terminal block. Am I correct with that statement ?

I kinda knew it but wanted to TEST it first with a continuity test with power off first. The Prob was I had spent some time reading on CNC forum a post that went into detail of fella explaining wiring and another fella explaining in detail how to test isolating entire circuitry.. Before I lay my head down the jumper issue came to mind but only needed confirmation before I set out to check switch and ask Q's isolation the proper circuitry. Than I looked at the way the circuit flowed many times at the terminal block knowing everything else and those dang jumper leads made no sense . Lota Fun solving the puzzle when ya have 2 extra parts that dont belong ayy?

Long story short She's up running fine now . However I do have one Question still unanswered . Why does the diagram on the new power box show Caps wired across W2 and V2 and W1 and W2 when in actuality they are not in those positions .. Is that correct ? Are those are 2 different options WITHOUT a Forward and reverse switch in mind ?

Thanks for all those who lent a hand and those who guessed thanks for your 2 bits of extra shenanigans as well … it was fun and a learning experience . Gota laugh at our assumptions and ask the right Q's . Ok shes running im gona ask this again and for the 2nd time on another forum . I want to drain the original gear box oil . The manual is NOT clear . My Q is Mobil DTE heavy/Med same as 80W90 auto gear oil? As I want to purchase the gear oil and change it before using my new mill thanks.

Glad to hear you got it running. I can't answer your electrical question because I just don't know. Hopefully someone else will chime in and have an answer for you.

Mobil DTE Heavy/Medium is ISO viscosity grade 68 so it's a bit lower viscosity than 80/90w gear oil. The manual says you can use either which is probably why you are asking. FWIW I use the Mobil product.

Tom S