Help selecting toolholder and insert

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Aurelius

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Hi,
I just ordered my new PM1228 lathe from Precision Matthews and had a couple of questions about toolholders and inserts.
It has an AXA QCTP and I saw that they have toolholders that fit 1/2" and 5/8" tools. I am planning on making pens and working mostly in plastics (at first at least). I plan on picking up a couple quality tools and the price difference between the sizes is negligible. Is there a reason to go with 1/2" vs 5/8" tools or vice versa?

As for insert, to get started, I was planning on picking up a right hand and neutral holder, most probably a CCxx type. Based on what I have read in David Best's book, it seems that will take care of most, if not all, of what I need until I build p the courage to tackle single point threading. When it comes to inserts, most of what I have seen talks about hardened steel vs aluminum but I have not seen anything specifically for plastics or resins other than to say sharp tools work best. Would something like a CCGT meant for aluminum work well or is there a better choice? I have also seen HSS insert at AR Warner, would those be something to consider?

Thanks!
 
Welcome to arguably the absolute best hobbyist forum, We'll treat you right, here.

Having said that....

Have you considered High Speed steel "grind it yourself" tooling? High speed steel will cut almost anything you can make a pen from. is infinitely sharpenable, doesn't need anything special in the way of "holders". You can clamp it right in your tool holder with one of the setscrews, two if you're going to cut steel.

I don't know, can you buy one insert? Cutting wood or any plastic, they'll last forever, ten will last for your great grandchildren to use.

Just an oltimer whining at the throwaway lifestyle.
 
AXA standard toolholders hold up to 1/2" tools. You can get the XL toolholders that hold up to 5/8". I've always figured the XL toolholders meant that the tool size was probably overkill for that size toolpost/lathe, and just for convienience if you happen to have a larger lathe. I've never tested that, so take it for what little it's worth.

Grinding your own HSS cutting tools shouldn't be ignored as an option, especially for softer materials.
 
@T Bredehoft There are two main reasons I was looking at insert tools vs grinding my own. 1) I don’t own a grinder and 2) even if I did, learning how to grind tools would be effort that could otherwise be spent on learning the lathe itself without worrying about the tooling. I’m not saying I’d never consider it but I’m trying to take reasonably bites instead of having too many moving pieces.

@rabler I was curious because the size and power on the 1228 would seem to suggest it could handle the bigger tooling but John at PM said they went with an AXA toolpost instead of the BXA because of tool height. In that case the 5/8” stuff might make more sense, no?
 
A 1/2×1/2 tool holder has stiffness X
A 5/8×5/8 tool holder has stiffness X×1.95 stiffer.

Now it may not mater in your line of lathe operation, but it may someday.
 
Start with a 1/2 CCxx holder.

Bottom line:

There are only so many hours in a day. Grinding HSS bits is amazing and very rewarding. Plus, it’s the BEST tooling option on your lathe. But you want to make chips on your new shiny lathe. It’s a serious time investment to acquire the proper skills, knowledge, and equipment to do it right.

Once you get up the lathe up and running, build/buy a belt sander. 2x72 is the best option but smaller will work. And read Mikey’s thread about grinding HSS.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If you're going to start with plastics there is no advantage to using 5/8" tools. They will cost more and if
you do decide to grind tools at some time, they just take longer to grind. I've never made a pen, but I imagine there's
no need for large DOC's either, so 3/8" or 1/2" tools should work for you.

As far a Warner HSS inserts, I've used them a fair amount. They have their limitations, but for many tasks they work
well and they are dead simple to "sharpen" so they're easy to deal with. Some folks believe that the inserts are expensive,
but they can be sharpened over and over. I've haven't replaced one yet, and unlike carbide, they don't chip. I hesitate
to make a blanket statement about their suitability for plastics since there are so many types, but I know they work great
with acetal.
 
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This is our hobby board, I can't be other than friendly, but

learning how to grind tools would be effort that could otherwise be spent on learning the lathe itself without worrying about the tooling.

You're trying to run without knowing how to walk.
 
CCGT (06 ot 09 size) insert in a 1/2" holder would be perfect. The 06 (21.51) size is also commonly used in boring bars from 6-12mm diameter, so it's a handy insert for both turning and boring.

As for HSS, it's handy to know how to grind it, and I do, but I haven't used HSS for regular turning or boring in years. The CCGT inserts cut better (no built up edge), last a good long time and I also don't need to use cutting fluid with them = less foggy shop. Each to their own, but the walking is now cheap inserts and the running is learning how to grind and hone the correct tool geometry into a piece of steel :)
 
Aurelius,
I favricate parts for vintage pens, so see a fair bit of acetyl and acrylics, as well S ebonite, which is really soft. You'll want a light touch and thin cuts to not eat that stuff up. I use HSS only on plastics, and no more than 350rpm to avoid melting and gouging.
Tim
 
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