Help me ID these boring heads please.

You will need to remove the arbors to get the thread size. You can get MT#2 from most suppliers with specific thread sizes. You can also get a MT #2 arbor blank and cut your own threads. I will get you one source that I use.

"Billy G"

http://www.victornet.com
 
I'd wait until you have the heads in your hands because on most stuff with Moore shanks the shanks are not removable.
 
Bill Gruby,

I was looking at your rply, and the thought crossed my mind... how to hold a taper to thread? A typical shaft is easy to grasp, 3 or 4 jaw chuck; how do you do it?
Thanks for the insight.
Bob
 
OlCatBob said:
Bill Gruby,

I was looking at your rply, and the thought crossed my mind... how to hold a taper to thread? A typical shaft is easy to grasp, 3 or 4 jaw chuck; how do you do it?
Thanks for the insight.
Bob
Click to expand...

Depending on the lathe you have...you may be able to insert it into the taper in the spindle. You might need an mt adaptor....but that's assuming you have an internal taper in the end of your spindle.

Chuck
 
Chuck,

I can understand doing it that way, but it seems to me that the side load created by threading would have a real good probability of "unseating" the taper, kind of in the same vein as trying to use a drill press as an improptu mill.

Bob
 
OlCatBob said:
Bill Gruby,

I was looking at your rply, and the thought crossed my mind... how to hold a taper to thread? A typical shaft is easy to grasp, 3 or 4 jaw chuck; how do you do it?
Thanks for the insight.
Bob
Click to expand...


To hold it for threading it should be mounted between centers and driven with a dog. That's the way the taper would have been turned/ground originally and would make the threads concentric.
 
Sorry I got back here late, but Don is correct. The best way to thread these is between centers to hold near perfect concentricity. The blanks come with centers drilled. Also stated was the fact that Moore units do not come apart, they don't.

"Billy G"
 
Guys! That makes perfect sense to me now! I had never considered the use of centers and a dog, it would obviously have to spin properly, as well as not slipping out. I would also suspect one would want "tie" the taper to the dog in some fashion so as to catch the thread properly each time.
Thanks for an excellent tutorial!
Bob
 
"Sorry I got back here late, but Don is correct. The best way to thread these is between centers to hold near perfect concentricity. The blanks come with centers drilled. Also stated was the fact that Moore units do not come apart, they don't."

Sounds like a better and safer way to do it....I stand corrected.

Chuck
 
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