Harbor Freight band saw modifications

[darkzero]

I just put one of those "power twist" link belts on my band saw and it is the single most important and best improvement I have done yet. the saw runs so much smoother and is really quiet now. It's hard to believe it is the same saw. I never would have thought that a simple belt could make such a difference.

Mark Frazier

Aren't they great? They don't always benefit every machine but when they do they make a big difference. I put one on my 4x6 bandsaw also & loved it. I have them on my lathe & air compressor also. I even had them on my old HF belt sander & mini lathe. Haven't put one on my 7x12 bandsaw but I will one day.

 

[Mark_f]

Mark
I was thinking the same about getting one for my saw
Where did you buy yours?
I was thinking about getting one from the local china freight

You can get one at harbor freight for twenty bucks ( I think 2 feet) but the best buy was on Amazon. Those things go for about $10 a foot. I found FOUR FEET for $20 on Amazon with free shipping :ups: I have enough left over for another one.

Mark Frazier

 

[Ebel440]

From th drawing on the valve body I'm guessing your check valve is a ball type? If you used a ball bearing you can replace it with a rubber one it may stop the leaking if that's where the leak is. MSC sells them I think

 

[Mark_f]

From th drawing on the valve body I'm guessing your check valve is a ball type? If you used a ball bearing you can replace it with a rubber one it may stop the leaking if that's where the leak is. MSC sells them I think

Yes, I used a ball bearing. had a hard time finding that. I will look for the rubber one. The leakage is small and with air. Oil may not leak as bad. Last resort, I just buy a check valve.


Mark

 

[Chip]

Did you try to seat the ball by way of a light/moderate hammer smack using a metal rod squared up against the ball bearing?

 

[John Hasler]

Did you try to seat the ball by way of a light/moderate hammer smack using a metal rod squared up against the ball bearing?

That is the recommended way of seating balls when rebuilding some kinds of hydraulic valves. You should throw away the ball that you use.

 

[markknx]

Mark, thanks for this thread. A lot of your mods were stock on my black bull 4x 6. but I do need to do something with the movable vice jaw and the crank for it I like your bushing and raised tommy bar bolt. Mark

 

[Mark_f]

Did you try to seat the ball by way of a light/moderate hammer smack using a metal rod squared up against the ball bearing?

Not yet , but going to try it.


Thanks,

Mark

 

[Mark_f]

Ok.. as you know I been working on a hydraulic feed cylinder for my 4 x 6 band saw.

View attachment 89375 These are the parts for this system. I made my own check valve (they are just too expensive and my budget is really tight right now). If it doesn't work good enough , I will break down and buy one I guess.

View attachment 89376 This is the cylinder assembled. It came out really nice , hope it works.

View attachment 89377 This is the cylinder and control assembly ready to fill with oil and test. it seems to work with air , but I think my check valve leaks just a little. things may be just fine with oil. The next step is to fill with oil and try on the saw. I hope to do that this week.

Mark Frazier

Well..... I finished the hydraulic down feed cylinder for my saw. You guys were right, I seated the check valve ball with a good hammer smack and it works OK now. I filled it with oil and it works good in both directions. The flow control is good and regulates the speed well. There is how ever one problem...... I don't think I need this thing right now. When I put the new belt on the saw , I put the PROPER length on and it relocated the motor position to where it should be ( the old belt was 2" too long). This shifted the saw arm weight and now I have the spring disconnected and the cylinder sitting on the bench. I have to hang a weight on the saw now to get the cutting force I want. WHO KNEW?

I will probably use it If I need to cut tubing , but don't need it cutting solid stock. I'm thinking put it back on and leave it disconnected and just put the pin in the clevis when I need to lighten the feed.

This is the completed cylinder. I filled it with some manual transmission oil left from my Jeep. I don't have the Jeep anymore but had this $45 a quart. oil left around. might as well put it to some use.


Mark Frazier

 

[hman]

It would probably be OK to leave the cylinder attached all the time.

Remember - the cylinder is just there to control the RATE at which the saw lowers itself. It won't affect downward blade pressure, assuming that some point in the fluid circuit is open to air.

If you're cutting thick metal, the saw's downward motion will be limited by its ability to cut. The cylinder's flow valve shouldn't slow things down any further, unless you have it closed way down.