Group Project: Dividing Head - Organization and Design

Is it necessary to case harden the base? Most commercial item bases are probably just cast iron? I would be concerned the part would warp duing hardening?
Robert
I fully expect it to warp slightly, but without some hardening the bottom of the base will be susceptible to dings that will interfere with accuracy and the trunnion bearing surface will be susceptible to wear.

Any warpage will be minimized by stress relieving before the rough machining.
 
For stress relieving, you want to be at least 100F below the critical temperature, which is generally 1100F to 1200F. Once reaching temperature, it is only important that you let it cool slowly. Production shops want to rush that part, because they have to make money. We're just looking to make a few quality parts.

My electric furnace is almost done, and it will have temperature control. But , if I were doing it with propane, I'd pack the forge with as much of the steel as I could get in there and heat it to cherry red and hold it there for an hour. Then cover the forge with as much insulation as I could and go to bed.

That is the plan for all the thick parts I'm working on. (The fun part will be case hardening the base, after the machining!!)

Is it necessary to case harden the base? Most commercial item bases are probably just cast iron? I would be concerned the part would warp duing hardening?
Robert

If you are going to case harden you will get warpage and dimensional changes. You will need to leave some stock for final machining / grinding AFTER case hardening. The squareness of the base is critical to accuracy.

In use the trunion is only moved during setup and is otherwise clamped down. As hobbyists I doubt if any of us will ever develop measurable wear, hardened or not.

A heat treat oven has been steadily climbing my wish list of tools........Even though I have no idea where I could put it, other than one of your shops....:no no no:
 
A heat treat oven has been steadily climbing my wish list of tools........Even though I have no idea where I could put it, other than one of your shops....:no no no:

If you need a shop to put it in, you can use mine and I'll skip finishing my build.

Just because that is the sort of nice guy I am.
 
If you need a shop to put it in, you can use mine and I'll skip finishing my build.

Just because that is the sort of nice guy I am.
If you were my next door neighbor, I might take you up on that...
As far south as you are, cant you do heat treating by just putting the parts outside on a sunny day????
 
OK, I am now back to where I was last Monday night. I at least have all the drawings down on paper. AND I now have a set of backups of this whole project, 134 files. Now I can once again start the process of going thru them to check each feature and dimension so that worst case tolerance stack up the parts will still have proper form, fit, and function. A lot of this step was incorporated while making the drawings that got blowed up.

We are back to seeing daylight at the end of the tunnel, I hope it is not just ANOTHER train coming in from the other side like the last light was.

(CHOOO CHOOOoooo..........)
 
I set up my casting stuff today and I tried a test casting.

1620433424193.pngFailure! One problem was my rookie mistake. I did not have enough weight on the flask and floated the cope. Duh. Nevertheless, the bulky casting pattern is not idea for yellow brass and would have significant shrink defects anyway. I think I need to thin out the web to about 3/8" and add a shrink bob. That should do it.
Robert
 
Here is the failed casting cleaned up.

1620487096089.png

You can see all the flash from the cope lifting. There is a bad shrink defect on the back. This is really yellow brass. It would be nicer to add in some copper but I don't have any available.

The pattern shop worked on this all morning and I think they have got it right.

1620487229256.png

Robert
 
I didn't see the defect of the top one, but the flashing wouldn't have been a problem :) I don't know how thick you made these, but it still might be usable all the same. I could potentially even just lathe it out into some sort of relief if it wasn't too bad.
 
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