G4003g Baldor Motor With Isolation Mounts - Surface Finish Fix 2.0

coolidge

coolidge

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1. The isolation mounts I had purchased were not hacking it with the motor mounted on its side so I ordered the much larger isolation mounts another forum member ordered.

2. It was getting really annoying trying to hold this heavy motor up with one hand while trying to start the three bolts with the other so I ordered some studs to replace the bolts!

3. I picked up a 6.5 x 8.5 x 1.25 block of aluminum and will machine a new motor mount to replace the factory cast iron mount. See 4 and 5 below for why.



4. Here's reason 1 of 2 why I'm making a new motor mount. The factory motor mount is 2.3 inches tall, plus the 1 inch tall smaller isolation mounts I used positions the motor 3.3 inches away from the lathe, as you can see in this picture that was just enough that the belt rubbed on the lathe end cover (face palm). The new larger isolation mounts are 1.625 inch tall, plus the 1.25 inch aluminum motor mount I'll machine will position the motor 2.875 inches from the lathe giving me .425 inch clearance from the belt!



5. Reason 2 of 2 for the new motor mount is, I need to reposition the motor .5 inches to the left towards the tailstock so that the pulley will line up with the end of the motor shaft properly. With this motor I'll have .5 inches of clearance between the rear of the motor and the lathe splash shield.



6. Here you can see how much larger the new isolation mounts are, 2 inches in diameter x 1.625 inches tall.



7. I'm done fooling around I'll mount 6 of these isolation mounts on the motor...this is my war face AHHHHHHH!



Tomorrow I'll make a Jim size pile of aluminum chips!
 
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Nice job. That motor is going to be so isolated you may have to go to another room to service it. :) Mike
 
In the end you still wind up with the motor connected to the lathe. You need to separate the two. I would install a line shaft for all of your equipment. Then you can use a nice flat belt to drive the gear box on the lathe. Complete isolation, and the bonus of the belt damping the 60Hz pulses from the motor.:grin:
 
Victory! :encourage:

The motor doesn't sag on these larger isolation mounts at all, and while the motor jiggled on the smaller/software isolation mounts it doesn't seem to move at all on these six larger ones. No motor vibration or harmonics can be felt in the lathe at all, it feels pretty quiet.

1. I used studs on the lathe vs the 3 bolts which made mounting this motor WAY easier, also much easier to adjust up/down vs the rough cast factory mount.
2. I moved the motor 1/2 left which lined up the pulley on motor flush with the end of the shaft. I have a bit over 1/2 of clearance between the end of the motor and the splash shield so perfect.
3. This new motor mount moved the motor in towards the lathe so the belt now clears the lathe end cover, about 1/4 inch clearance or so.
 
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Very nice solution. Impressive pile of chips on the mill table too. :)
 
How did my chip pile wind up on your mill? :grin:

Over the last 3 days I produced a 55 gal barrel full of UHMW chips. You can have those too if you want;)
 
Well that looks a heck of a lot better than the crummy piece of cast iron that came on the machine.

How thick was that Aluminum plate before you started?

Nice job!
 
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JimDawson said:
How did my chip pile wind up on your mill? :grin:

Over the last 3 days I produced a 55 gal barrel full of UHMW chips. You can have those too if you want;)
Click to expand...

I dub you King of chips!! I hate plastic chips especially when they get charged with static electricity and cling to you.
 
tmarks11 said:
Well that looks a heck of a lot better than the crummy piece of cast iron that came on the machine.

How thick was that Aluminum plate before you started?

Nice job!
Click to expand...

Thanks tmarks the plate is 1.25 inch thick, I didn't bother to surface it to make it look pretty so that's the final thickness.
 
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