G0752z Potentiometer-Garbage

OK. so maybe I outsmarted myself, as some of you above tried to nicely tell me. :)

The install was, of course; uneventful. The brake installed easily enough. 6x1" industrial Velcro is a lifesaver. Done and appears to work.

But... the pot. Oh the pot. :-(

I ended up ordering both of the single-turn pots above. One from Digi and one from Mouser (not that that matters). Motion appears to be from about 7:00-5:00 exactly as the spec stated. My problem is that all on my RPM range exists between approximately 7:00 and 10:30-11:00. After that, it's just 'wide open.' It is WAY TOO sensitive. :-(

Both of the new ones behave exactly the same.

Now some of you tried to tell me that, but I am wondering if there is a setting somewhere in the Delta VFD where I have to tell it that I am using a 1 turn pot instead of a 10 turn. I know. Now that I said it out loud it doesn't make sense to me either. But neither does the behavior I'm seeing. I may have 100 RPM of variance between 11 and 5 o'clock, but between 7 and 11, it is ultra sensitive. Too sensitive.

I'm almost wondering if I replace it with a 3-turn, will I see the same thing thru 30% of the total rotations? I guess that would be one full turn like I wanted, right? LOL

Anybody have any insight? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. This, unfortunately, is not usable as it is.
 

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I don't know the answer. Maybe a 3T would be better, maybe not.

You'd have to study your VFD manual to find out what parameters you need to change. Think you'd also need the VFD keypad to reprogram it. Don't know if it would be easy without one.
 
It would appear that your brown and blue wires are reversed. If you want you could change the two wires at the VFD to check, can switch the labels or resolder the wires at the pot.

1727379413875.png
 
It would appear that your brown and blue wires are reversed. If you want you could change the two wires at the VFD to check, can switch the labels or resolder the wires at the pot.

View attachment 503802

I hoped you'd see this and pop in here. Thank you! That was it. It is functioning perfectly now.

In my defense, I was going by the other picture. It was really all I had. I couldn't find any documentation anywhere specific to that pot and nothing generic enough to convince me that they were all posted the same. I didn't want to just start trying permutations for fear of damaging something if I hadn't already.

I like it. I think I'm going to like it a lot. For $20 though, I may just order a 3 turn just to play with it. It's literally a 10 minute job now that I've drilled the panel out to 3/8" anyway.

Thank you. This was one of just a couple of things on this lathe that was driving me crazy. I know it's all in what you get used to which is exactly my point. It is what I got used to on my mill.

Looks like I'm going to have to throw out the baby with the bathwater to install TouchDRO on this lathe. Another project for down the road. It's certainly more than usable with what it has now. Again. I'm used to TouchDRO.

I can't thank you enough. All of you. I hope this helps someone else along the way. All in all, it's a 30 minute $50 'upgrade' and well worth the investment IMHO. Thank you!
 
Oh. I'm color-blind. Again, sometimes I have to do the best I can with a volt/continuity meter and bow my head and say a prayer first. :)
 
It helps to post pictures as you did, I started out with some programming recommendations and thought I should double-check the connections. Not uncommon for the pot to get wired wrong, in particular the multi-turn pots if you are not familiar with them. Many installs will use single color wiring say for the low voltage might be red and high voltage black, so that is where adding wire labels is always worthwhile, I use both the shrink tube blabber and the peel off numbers that come in booklets.

Agree that a 10 turn is a bit of a PITA, I find the 3 turn to work out well when there is more than 100Hz range, otherwise single turn works just fine.
 
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