Fixing up the Millport

[jmhoying]

I've been working on the Millport that I picked up last week. A photo is in the "Mill ID Help" thread.
It's a clone of a J-head Bridgeport and was built in 1979. So far, I've done a lot of small fixes to get it into good working condition.
I made a new key pin for inside the spindle for the R8 collets (a real pain to get at).
I replaced the brake shoes, (one had a broken off end).
Removed to antique DRO, which had a dead Y readout. Will be installing a 3 Axis DRO soon.
Replaced a stripped brass gear in the Servo 150 power feed.
Fixed a couple broken handles.
Adjusted out the backlash in the X and Y axis.
Made a shim washer to take up some slop in the back-gear jack shaft.
Numerous little items that needed attention.
General cleaning of the head.
I didn't have a speck of rust to deal with, so that is a bonus.

Should get the motor back on and have it under power tomorrow night.

Jack
Fort Loramie, Ohio

 

[Bill C.]

I've been working on the Millport that I picked up last week. A photo is in the "Mill ID Help" thread.
It's a clone of a J-head Bridgeport and was built in 1979. So far, I've done a lot of small fixes to get it into good working condition.
I made a new key pin for inside the spindle for the R8 collets (a real pain to get at).
I replaced the brake shoes, (one had a broken off end).
Removed to antique DRO, which had a dead Y readout. Will be installing a 3 Axis DRO soon.
Replaced a stripped brass gear in the Servo 150 power feed.
Fixed a couple broken handles.
Adjusted out the backlash in the X and Y axis.
Made a shim washer to take up some slop in the back-gear jack shaft.
Numerous little items that needed attention.
General cleaning of the head.
I didn't have a speck of rust to deal with, so that is a bonus.

Should get the motor back on and have it under power tomorrow night.

Jack
Fort Loramie, Ohio

Sounds like you are making good progress in restoring it. Hope it serves you well for many years.

 

[Richard King]

be sure to not over tighten the 1/4 20 set screw on the back of the quill that holds the bearing quill nut. If you tighten it to tight when you run the quill up it will get tight because the quill is slightly egg shaped. Sounds like you have a handle on it.

 

[jmhoying]

Re: Fixing up the Millport (some issues)

The Millport (J-Head clone) is now running, but I have two issues to work out. The minor one is that the power quill feed is not working. The fine feed handle does rotate, but there is no movement of the quill. The engage/dis-engage lever does not have any effect, as it's always on when the feed is powered up. The little foward/reverse knob does work as it should. I'll have to take the assembly apart to see if I can see what's up.

The main issue that I have is the loud vibration noise that I get when using the high speed range (direct drive engaged). I'm not sure if it's a bearing problem or what. Almost sounds like the gear cogs are miss-alligned, which I doubt could happen. The mill works and sounds great in the low speed range

Jack
Fort Loramie, Ohio

 

[Richard King]

Is it a VS head or step pulley. If it is a VS head with one belt there are Nylatron bushings that line the inside of the pulleys that rattle when they are worn. The belt when worn to thin will also go to deep in the opened pulley and make a noise too. I usually replace the VS belt when I have it apart. The timing belt for that matter. The High Low clutches also wear and rattle. A easy way to check them is to engage the clutch and put on the brake and with the power off on the machine hold the break with your left hand and grab around the spindle and see if you can turn it a little in each direction. If you get a movement the clutch is worn. Some machines have an adjustment on the clutch engage handle and you can adjust the lock bolt plate so it seats the clutch deeper. I have no idea if your has that. You could take a picture of the engagement lever and I could tell you. If these check OK then a bearing is probably bad. Rich

 

[jmhoying]

Is it a VS head or step pulley. If it is a VS head with one belt there are Nylatron bushings that line the inside of the pulleys that rattle when they are worn. The belt when worn to thin will also go to deep in the opened pulley and make a noise too. I usually replace the VS belt when I have it apart. The timing belt for that matter. The High Low clutches also wear and rattle. A easy way to check them is to engage the clutch and put on the brake and with the power off on the machine hold the break with your left hand and grab around the spindle and see if you can turn it a little in each direction. If you get a movement the clutch is worn. Some machines have an adjustment on the clutch engage handle and you can adjust the lock bolt plate so it seats the clutch deeper. I have no idea if your has that. You could take a picture of the engagement lever and I could tell you. If these check OK then a bearing is probably bad. Rich

It's a step pulley version (J-head). I don't think there is any adjustment in my engagement handle. Photos attached below. There is very little slop with the clutch engaged, and I can say that it looked to have little wear when I had it apart. I just checked the noise again, and I'm wondering if it might be in the back gear itself. I'll try to do a video one of these nights. As it is, I have a speed range of 80 to 2720 rpm if I don't use direct drive

Sounds like spindle bearings to me but I always suspect the spindle bearings when I hear strange noises.

If it is the spindle bearings you're in for a pretty precise, technical, and not inexpensive fix.

Since the spindle is nice and quiet and cool running in the one range, I don't think that the spindle bearings are a problem. (I have run comparable speeds to test it)

Thanks,
Jack

 

[Richard King]

Those clutches are tapered a little and the deeper they go the tighter they get.
http://hqtinc.com/customimages/step_pulley.htm Item 10 and 31 If the page comes up click on he top left parts and it explodes the picture. it's for a Bridgeport, but I believe the Millport is the same design (copy).

Some times those upper bushings that raise and lower when you move the front handle there are 2 little flat head screws that ride in the groove and they get buggered up or bent. or those bushing (11) get tight and doesn't drop all the way. Rich.

PS: Call High Quality Tool too as they have been selling parts for years and rebuilds heads too.

 

[Chuck K]

Does the noise get less if you move the handles a little? I had a belt change bp that made a lot of noise if the handles weren't in just the right position. Like the earlier poster said, the screws in the slots on the speed changing assembly probably just need some attention.

Chuck