- Joined
- Apr 6, 2011
- Messages
- 2,082
You did a nice job there Jim, including the drawings and write-up. It still could be a great help for the guys who don't have the part readily available.
-Ron
-Ron
-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
Fixing the rear leadscrew bearing on an Atlas 10" lathe
- Thread starter ScrapMetal
- Start date
Nice work. I too made this part for my 12" Atlas about 4 yrs ago. I followed a drawing I found on the net. I machined the outside from a block of aluminum and machined the bronze bushing from 660 bronze stock. I used a small brass screw for the pin. It worked fine. I later purchased an original part. It had a slopp fit on the leadscrew so I continued to use the one I made. It was on the lathe when I sold it.
BTW I enjoyed your pics of the work you did on the Horizontal will. I have a chance to trade for a small one. It will be a new experience for me.
Joe
BTW I enjoyed your pics of the work you did on the Horizontal will. I have a chance to trade for a small one. It will be a new experience for me.
Joe
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2011
- Messages
- 3,584
The original on my lathe had been broken sometime in the past. It had been brazed back together.
I did cut the lead screw about 3" from the gearbox and installed a sleeve and a shear pin on both sides of the cut. Fortunately I had not sheared the pins, they were just 1/8" aluminium rod not steel.
I did cut the lead screw about 3" from the gearbox and installed a sleeve and a shear pin on both sides of the cut. Fortunately I had not sheared the pins, they were just 1/8" aluminium rod not steel.
good two piece approach to the lead screw bearing replacement
Hi,
I was pleased to find your description of the lead screw bearing repair. Years ago, I cobbled together a "pinned" sleeve for my Atlas Craftsman 12 X 36 lathe (3/4 inch lead screw). I shared the idea on a forum, and the gentleman whose site you referenced picked up on the idea and posted it! At that time, I had used a bent piece of aluminum to hold the bronze bushing, and had to put some shims behind the aluminum to get it to locate properly. I used a pop rivet to hold the sleeve in position.
Anyway...recently, I've gotten back to using the lathe, and also added a Grizzly G0704 mill to my equipment. With mill in hand, and some aluminum stock that had been bored for a 3/4 inch bronze bushing, I set to work to make a new one.
The key feature that I used (that was not described in the reference) was that the 3/4 inch bushing (with an o.d. of 1 inch) actually had a second 1/2 inch i.d. bronze bushing pressed into it.
I used that same feature again with the new housing I made (just today). So, the bushings are a slip fit in the aluminum block housing, and are held in place by a pin (this time, I used a clipped aluminum nail that I had on hand rather than a rivet. Again, the nail/rivet is inserted in a hole through the housing and into the 3/4 inch bushing (actually, I used two sections of 3/4 inch bushing, with one 1/2 inch bushing inside of them both).
The benefit was that I didn't have to turn down that pinned washer at the end of the lead screw.
This fabrication is much more stable than the last one, and has better alignment. But I used the lathe a fair amount after the first repair.
I trust you'll have good success with your design as well.
Thanks for sharing,
delkeen
Hi,
I was pleased to find your description of the lead screw bearing repair. Years ago, I cobbled together a "pinned" sleeve for my Atlas Craftsman 12 X 36 lathe (3/4 inch lead screw). I shared the idea on a forum, and the gentleman whose site you referenced picked up on the idea and posted it! At that time, I had used a bent piece of aluminum to hold the bronze bushing, and had to put some shims behind the aluminum to get it to locate properly. I used a pop rivet to hold the sleeve in position.
Anyway...recently, I've gotten back to using the lathe, and also added a Grizzly G0704 mill to my equipment. With mill in hand, and some aluminum stock that had been bored for a 3/4 inch bronze bushing, I set to work to make a new one.
The key feature that I used (that was not described in the reference) was that the 3/4 inch bushing (with an o.d. of 1 inch) actually had a second 1/2 inch i.d. bronze bushing pressed into it.
I used that same feature again with the new housing I made (just today). So, the bushings are a slip fit in the aluminum block housing, and are held in place by a pin (this time, I used a clipped aluminum nail that I had on hand rather than a rivet. Again, the nail/rivet is inserted in a hole through the housing and into the 3/4 inch bushing (actually, I used two sections of 3/4 inch bushing, with one 1/2 inch bushing inside of them both).
The benefit was that I didn't have to turn down that pinned washer at the end of the lead screw.
This fabrication is much more stable than the last one, and has better alignment. But I used the lathe a fair amount after the first repair.
I trust you'll have good success with your design as well.
Thanks for sharing,
delkeen
Hi Delkeen!
I am new here and getting my old Atlas 10f up and running. I want to try and make a new lead screw bearing. Since I don;t have acess to a mill I was thinking of using a solid AL block?? I was a little confused by reading your description. If you could help me? you used two bronze bearing?? one inside the other?? A photo would be great!!!
Thanks Again,
Randy in Fl
I am new here and getting my old Atlas 10f up and running. I want to try and make a new lead screw bearing. Since I don;t have acess to a mill I was thinking of using a solid AL block?? I was a little confused by reading your description. If you could help me? you used two bronze bearing?? one inside the other?? A photo would be great!!!
Thanks Again,
Randy in Fl