Fine tuning and adjustments

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deadfrednc

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Hey guys I've been working on getting my atlas 10f back up to par and there is a bit of slop in the cross feed and the compound is there a way to get rid of this? Also I noticed the compound moves a little at the ways but I adjusted the gibs to the point that it had no play by hand that I noticed i didn't want to over tighten it either also a good step by step on centering the tailstock would be great. Thanks in advance!

Richard
 
deadfrednc said:
Hey guys I've been working on getting my atlas 10f back up to par and there is a bit of slop in the cross feed and the compound is there a way to get rid of this? Also I noticed the compound moves a little at the ways but I adjusted the gibs to the point that it had no play by hand that I noticed i didn't want to over tighten it either also a good step by step on centering the tailstock would be great. Thanks in advance!

Richard
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I usually tighten the compound feed since I seldom used it. The cross-feed I don't tighten those gibs as much since I used them all the time. If you can turn the handle with a little resistance that is tight enough.

I centered tail-stock by putting a center in the tail-stock and spindle. Bring the tail-stock up to the chuck and align the two center points to rough in. The witness marks on the back side of the tail-stock are approximate. To zero in use a ground mandrel between centers. Used a indicator to zero in the tail-stock.

Another method use a piece of stock about 1" in diameter, center the stock in a four jaw chuck then center-drill each end. Mount it between centers, using a drive dog, and turn about .010" off by 1" on both ends. Measure the diameters to see the difference. Using a indicator measure the offset of the tail-stock. Re-cut both diameters and re-measure the diameters to see if more adjustment is needed. It sounds confusing but after a little practice it will be second nature.
 
If you have more than 0.010" of backlash in either crank, you can try to adjust that lower. But even with new feed screws and nuts, you aren't going to get it under about 0.010".

On both the cross slide feed and compound feed, there is a special hex nut that retains the crank, and between the crank and dial, a lock nut and star lock washer. Adjusting the lock nut on the cross slide is best done with the cross slide run completely off of the cross feed screw. Find a thin enough open end wrench that fits onto the lock nut without jamming between the crank and dial. And a box end wrench for the crank nut. Immobilize the crank and loosen the crank nut slightly. With the thin open end wrench, tighten the lock nut one flat. Still without moving the crank, tighten the crank nut. Turn the crank and see how it feels. It shouldn't spin but should take virtually no effort to turn. Repeat until there is a noticeable drag when turning the crank a few degrees. Back the lock nut out 1/2 a flat. Re-engage the feed nut and feed screw and check back lash with the dial. That's as good as it is going to get.

Robert D.
 
This is a nut i did on my south bend, but also did a atlas, if the screw is good you can reduce the end play to nothing.

101_0581.jpg 101_0582.jpg
 
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