Early Sheldon 10 inch.

[Doc Hoy]

I began this post in a different forum, not realizing this Sheldon forum exists.

I got hold of an early Sheldon 10 Inch which is listed in a brochure as Model 1020. A relatively standards convention is that the 20 refers to the working capacity. As mine is 26 as opposed to 20, I am thinking the model is actually 1026. The serial number is L253 making its date of manufacture sometime in late 1933 or 1934.

When I got the lathe it had nine thread gears in addition to the gear that was installed on the lathe. The steady rest and follow rest were included, as was a face plate. The chuck is a three jaw universal but appears to be other than OEM.

The cross-feed nut is somewhat galled out and should be replaced. The compound feed nut is in good condition with acceptable (for my needs) backlash. The near bushing on the head-stock needs replacement on an urgent basis. It appears to be a standard 1 3/4 inch bushing. I think I will find one without too much trouble.

As of this moment, I am unable to move the main gear on the spindle. It does not appear that there is any locking mechanism that is holding the gear in place. I think it is just frozen. (I am trying to get the spindle out to replace the bushing. I am thinking the lathe comes apart like a South Bend 9 inch. Just remove the far end collar and push it out.)

The photos of this lathe are over on the antique machine forum. SO as not to use up a bunch of memory, I will leave them there until it becomes necessary to bring them here.

Any access to parts or advice on getting this gear to move laterally on the spindle would be much appreciated.

Tnx,

Doc

 

[projectnut]

I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned it yet, but you might want to join the Sheldon Lathe Group:

sheldonlathe groups.io Group

Sheldonlathe is for sharing information about Sheldon, Sebastian, and Vernon machine tools. The Files, Photos, and Links sections contain basic information. Members may upload machine photos to the Photos section. For a manual or parts for your Sheldon, check the Files for "Sheldon Parts FAQ"...

groups.io

They have tons of information about all the Sheldon products including some manuals and brochures. They also have the luxury of having John Knox, a former Sheldon engineer as a moderator of the board. People over there are very friendly and more than willing to help. I would be surprised if they don't have the information you're looking for.

There always seem to be many restoration projects in the works. Many members post progress updates with photo's and prints. There are plenty of people there with similar era machines. I personally can't be of much help other than pointing you in this direction. My Sheldon Lathe is a bit newer (1960) and is totally different than the one you're working on.

 

[wa5cab]

Unfortunately, the only Sheldon 10" lathe that we have manuals on in Downloads is the Model XL which is a cabinet model that has Timken spindle bearings. So no help for you.

However, I will comment that if your lathe is supposed to have Back Gears, as most did, then neither the large nor the small spindle part of the back gears should be able to move on the spindle. Typically, the large gear will be keyed to the spindle and held in position by a set screw.

If you will say which Forum your initial post on the Sheldon appeared in, and what the Subject was, I can move it into this Forum and if desired, merge it with this thread.

 

[Doc Hoy]

Post was on the antique and vintage machines forum.

I am not speaking of moving the gear radially. I need to move it laterally so I can take the spindle out. I soaked it with the Walmart equivalent of Liquid Wrench. I am now able to move the spindle right and left by about one half inch, meaning the the gear has begun to move lateraly on the spindle by about half an inch. It is getting easier and easier to move and eventually I am certain it will come all of the way off. I am about 90% convinced this spindle bull gear, and cone pulley design is a spitting image of the South Bend small lathes. So far, everything looks so close as to be nearly interchangeable between this and my 9C. They are not because of dimensions but they look very close in design.

 

[Doc Hoy]

Post was on the antique and vintage machines forum.

I am not speaking of moving the gear radially. I need to move it laterally so I can take the spindle out. I soaked it with the Walmart equivalent of Liquid Wrench. I am now able to move the spindle right and left by about one half inch, meaning the the gear has begun to move lateraly on the spindle by about half an inch. It is getting easier and easier to move and eventually I am certain it will come all of the way off. I am about 90% convinced this spindle bull gear, and cone pulley design is a spitting image of the South Bend small lathes. So far, everything looks so close as to be nearly interchangeable between this and my 9C. They are not because of dimensions but they look very close in design.

Made a jig just like the South Bend 9C (only larger) and got the spindle out. 3/4 all thread, two nuts two washers and a fitting that will pass the spindle. Turned right out.

 

[Doc Hoy]

I began this post in a different forum, not realizing this Sheldon forum exists.

I got hold of an early Sheldon 10 Inch which is listed in a brochure as Model 1020. A relatively standards convention is that the 20 refers to the working capacity. As mine is 26 as opposed to 20, I am thinking the model is actually 1026. The serial number is L253 making its date of manufacture sometime in late 1933 or 1934.

When I got the lathe it had nine thread gears in addition to the gear that was installed on the lathe. The steady rest and follow rest were included, as was a face plate. The chuck is a three jaw universal but appears to be other than OEM.

The cross-feed nut is somewhat galled out and should be replaced. The compound feed nut is in good condition with acceptable (for my needs) backlash. The near bushing on the head-stock needs replacement on an urgent basis. It appears to be a standard 1 3/4 inch bushing. I think I will find one without too much trouble.

As of this moment, I am unable to move the main gear on the spindle. It does not appear that there is any locking mechanism that is holding the gear in place. I think it is just frozen. (I am trying to get the spindle out to replace the bushing. I am thinking the lathe comes apart like a South Bend 9 inch. Just remove the far end collar and push it out.)

The photos of this lathe are over on the antique machine forum. SO as not to use up a bunch of memory, I will leave them there until it becomes necessary to bring them here.

Any access to parts or advice on getting this gear to move laterally on the spindle would be much appreciated.

Tnx,

Doc

More info on the disassembly of this headstock. To bring you up speed, I was able to pull the spindle using some 3/4 allthread and just pulled it with the nuts on the allthread. I made a jig to press against the headstock as the nuts were tightened. The bushing both require replacement. Total job could go $800.00 at a machine shop.

Too much money so I got to work getting the bushings out of the headstock. They moved relatively easily to a point and then stopped dead. I could not figure out what was interfering with the movement until I realized that the oil cups were pressed into some brass sleeves in the Top of the head stock casting. These sleeves were pressed into the head stock after the bushings were installed. The sleeves were pressed in below the outer surface of the bushing is such a way as to prevent the bushing from moving more than about an eight inch.

So the steps in disassembly are:

1. Remove the locking collar, gear, and spacer at the far end of the spindle.
2. Pull the spindle
3. Remove the oil cups and drive out the oil cup sleeve. The near end can be pulled out, much the same as pulling the spindle but with a 1/4 - 20 bolt. The far end is made differently such that a bolt will not fit through the smaller oil orifice. That one must be driven into the open bushing.
4. Remove the bushings.

My sense is that the reassembly will be simply the reverse of disassembly.

 

[Doc Hoy]

More info on the disassembly of this headstock. To bring you up speed, I was able to pull the spindle using some 3/4 allthread and just pulled it with the nuts on the allthread. I made a jig to press against the headstock as the nuts were tightened. The bushing both require replacement. Total job could go $800.00 at a machine shop.

Too much money so I got to work getting the bushings out of the headstock. They moved relatively easily to a point and then stopped dead. I could not figure out what was interfering with the movement until I realized that the oil cups were pressed into some brass sleeves in the Top of the head stock casting. These sleeves were pressed into the head stock after the bushings were installed. The sleeves were pressed in below the outer surface of the bushing is such a way as to prevent the bushing from moving more than about an eight inch.

So the steps in disassembly are:

1. Remove the locking collar, gear, and spacer at the far end of the spindle.
2. Pull the spindle
3. Remove the oil cups and drive out the oil cup sleeve. The near end can be pulled out, much the same as pulling the spindle but with a 1/4 - 20 bolt. The far end is made differently such that a bolt will not fit through the smaller oil orifice. That one must be driven into the open bushing.
4. Remove the bushings.

My sense is that the reassembly will be simply the reverse of disassembly.

Just got a call from Miller Bearing in Ft. Myers, FL. They found a large bearing and small bearing for $12.00 and $10.00 respectively plus $9.00 shipping to my door. These are sleeve bushing so they will need to be cut and grooved. Additionally, I anticipate they will need some machining to get them to fit. I will continue to update this thread as the project progresses.

 

[Doc Hoy]

Success! After tapping out the old bushings, I bought some sleeve bushings from Miller Bearing in Ft. Myers. I had to take about .003 off of the bushings to get them to fit. Then I smoothed down the spindle. I had to turn the sleeve bushing into split bushings and cut some oil grooves. Zero wobble in the spindle. Next step is to make a half nut replacement and a cross feed nut. More later.

 

[Doc Hoy]

Success! After tapping out the old bushings, I bought some sleeve bushings from Miller Bearing in Ft. Myers. I had to take about .003 off of the bushings to get them to fit. Then I smoothed down the spindle. I had to turn the sleeve bushing into split bushings and cut some oil grooves. Zero wobble in the spindle. Next step is to make a half nut replacement and a cross feed nut. More later.

Just completed the fabrication of the half nut for the lead screw. It has eliminated the vast majority of the slop in the saddle.

This lathe has become precise enough and tight enough to meet my needs. I have built a rolling cabinet with drawers and pull out shelves.

Right now, the lathe is pulled apart for repainting.

Machinery grey with red hand controls.

The advance handwheel for the saddle is loose. Little impact on actual operation. Just embarrassing. I have a bushing ordered but I fear that I will need to ream out the bore in the saddle to accept the bushing.

Details at eleven.

 

[Doc Hoy]

Here are photos of the new half nut. I made it out of two pieces and then welded it together for ease of fabrication and to save on 2 x 2 steel stock.