dumb question about grinding

Coldspot

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The question is how to maintain a curved profile when you had to weld across it. I am trying to restore the profile on the edge of a running board. I have build it up with weld and am trying to match the curved edge with my grinder. This is not working to well for me as the grinder like to make things flat not round. The purpose of the question is to find out what finishing tools people use when working on round or curved surfaces. For me, the only thing that comes to mind is to break out my files and slow down a whole bunch. I am using a Tig to do the welding and the material is doubled up 16 gauge mild steel.
thanks
Gord
 
Nothing dumb about that question. I use one of these after roughing in with a grinder and a template if I can't eyeball it close enough.


40320.JPG

40320.JPG
 
Just leave the weld a little proud with your body grinder and then finish it off with a body file, which can be made to conform to a curve, either concave or convex.

Tom

BH_125.jpg

BH_125.jpg
 
Thanks
I will try that
Gord
]Nothing dumb about that question. I use one of these after roughing in with a grinder and a template if I can't eyeball it close enough.


40320.JPG[/QUOTE]

40320.JPG
 
Thanks
I don't have a file like this right now but I will get one .
Gord




Just leave the weld a little proud with your body grinder and then finish it off with a body file, which can be made to conform to a curve, either concave or convex.

Tom

BH_125.jpg[/QUOTE]

BH_125.jpg
 
I have great results with a flap disk, usually using an air die grinder. I did all my lathe hand wheels,
ball handles with a flap disk the buffed came out like glass.
 
Honestly, unless you are doing a 100 point restoration, either lead or body filler would be a better alternative. You are going to have to smooth it with something eventually, even if it's just glaze. A rolling hand motion is good with a block but for curved surfaces, after the weld, nothing beats a good old hand sanding. Mike.
 
Thanks Mike
i was thinking about powder coating the boards so as to have the paint last a bit longer. The lead will stand up to the cure but normal body filler won't. Thanks for the idea of using lead to finish it
i am getting better with the TIG so the metal going on is not to bad for grinding to shape and my collection of files is being used too.
Gord



Honestly, unless you are doing a 100 point restoration, either lead or body filler would be a better alternative. You are going to have to smooth it with something eventually, even if it's just glaze. A rolling hand motion is good with a block but for curved surfaces, after the weld, nothing beats a good old hand sanding. Mike.
 
And remember a question is never dumb if someone does not know the answer.:winner:
 
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