Dropped Drill Chuck

Smudgemo

Smudgemo

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Nov 2, 2012
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I'm curious if I'm doing it wrong. I was drilling aluminum to make a set of highway pegs for my motorcycle, and the bar to clamp to is 25mm. I quickly worked up to 1/2", then grabbed the S&D bits. But even the smaller sizes grabbed the work and spun the chuck off the taper before they ever really got going. Jacobs chuck, JT33 and a decent quality R8 arbor (can't recall the brand but it wasn't a MiC cheapie.) I ended up using the boring head to go from 1/2" to 25mm which worked beautifully, though a lot slower.

So I guess I'm wondering if the S&D drills are too large for that sort of chuck, and if so, what would be more appropriate? I'm also wondering whether I should be concerned about damage to the chuck. Nothing looked out of sorts with a quick look, and smaller drills a couple of steps later acted normal.

Thoughts?
 
Might have better results with a 1/2" collet. Did you use any lube? Tap Magic, or WD 40 helps. Mike
 
It’s common to have that happen. If I drill a pre hole I try to keep it the size of the web of the final size bit. Sometimes it helps to radius the edge of the bit so it won’t dig in so much
 
A lot of folks see step drilling shown and repeat, but often not done correctly.already mentioned, size of web is what matters.

Otherwise the drill gets too aggressive and cuts too fast, takes too arge of a bite, chips the corners and pops the chuck.

We often use center drill to spot, maybe 1/8 to 1/4 as pilot then 1/2 if that is final.

Put mill in back gear and take very large steps

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
I have this problem with my drill press, especially with thinner stock. The drill grabs, and the chuck flies off. This is basically a problem of milling with a drill press. When I have this problem, I'll usually put the job on my mill, and use taper shank drill bits or a boring head. Recently, I saw a YouTube video that showed cutting a small patch of cloth about twice the size of the hole, pinching it with the quill, and turning the drill on. It works just great. Just replace the cloth when it becomes tattered, else it will seize again. People have suggested dubbing the drill. Dubbing does not mean dulling! It means reducing the rake at the cutting edge. Too hard to explain. Think about a lathe bit.
 
If you can , use the feed on the quill . It won't pull when it breaks thru . If using manually , you need to pull and and kinda push at the same time when breaking thru thin stuff . Any drilling with an S&D drill , I always set the quill stop so the drill can't grab when breaking thru . Just a safety tip .
 
This was the initial bite into the surface where the drill grabbed the work and spun off the chuck. The material was an inch thick, so I never got anywhere using S&D drills. I hadn't thought of power feed, though. This is a 2/3 size Bridgeport mill.

The boring head works so well, though, I'll probably reach for that tool first in the future for aluminum. I figured I wasn't approaching this properly and just wanted suggestions, so thanks all.
 
You were better off for using the boring head. The fit around the case guards will be better with a bored hole vs a drilled hole
 
Probably. My design skills are not so skillful, so I'm assuming this is just my first iteration. The bike is a BMW boxer so the crash bars are not symmetrical. The pegs are matching but clamps are way too large to give me an idea of what I feels good in use so I can design something more svelte. Sure, I could buy some, but what fun is that?
 
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