Dremel tool holder

prasad

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Using guidance received from experienced machinists of this forum I made this Dremel holder. I think it came out pretty good. When fully tightened the Dremel tool stops with its switch and speed control at the top which was what I wanted.

I am sharing a few pictures. I am a beginner, all comments are welcome.

Thank you
Prasad
Wynnewood PA

CAM00083.jpg CAM00084.jpg CAM00085.jpg CAM00082.jpg CAM00080.jpg
 
Prasad: You did a great job. Pat yourself on the back.
Roger
 
Using guidance received from experienced machinists of this forum I made this Dremel holder. I think it came out pretty good. When fully tightened the Dremel tool stops with its switch and speed control at the top which was what I wanted.

I am sharing a few pictures. I am a beginner, all comments are welcome.

Thank you
Prasad
Wynnewood PA

Looks like a great job! Congratulations!
So what is the secret to making the threads leave your "switch and speed control at the top"?

Curious,

CannonFodder

(Bob)
 
Nice job on the holder.

The Dremel on the other hand, not a good TPG choice. The Bearings flex inside the plastic frame and leave a bad finish. Cheapo HF pencil grinders are way better, and faster.

I have a Dremel 4000 (same as yours) and a HF pencil grinder. Once you go pneumatic, you'll never go back. Quieter, no vibration, much smaller (easier to hold) faster so it cuts and doesn't push, gets colder not hotter, better bearings, and finite adjustable speed.
 
Nice Work!!!!!!
just take light cuts with the dremel , you'll be OK!!!
 
Hi nice work on the Dremel, making best use of what you have is the way to go.
Go to the top of the class.

Brian.
 
So what is the secret to making the threads leave your "switch and speed control at the top"?

Prasad, I love your design, and my apologies if I'm stealing your thunder here ...

I fabricated several Dremel nose mounts for Rose Engines back in '08 and '09. After drilling and tapping the hole, I test fit the Dremel, noted where it stopped, then skim cut the face of the mount to "time" the position. The thread is 3/4"-12TPI, so for example a 1/2 turn adjustment would require cutting off 1/2 of 1/12", or .042"

PS - Dremel's spindle thread is 9/32"-40TPI
 
Looks like a great job! Congratulations!
So what is the secret to making the threads leave your "switch and speed control at the top"?

Curious,

CannonFodder

(Bob)

Bob

No secret here. I used a 3/4" milling cutter to mill down the end where the Dremel enters the unit. It took about three attempts or cuts to get it right.

Thanks
Prasad
Wynnewood PA
 
Bob

No secret here. I used a 3/4" milling cutter to mill down the end where the Dremel enters the unit. It took about three attempts or cuts to get it right.

Thanks
Prasad
Wynnewood PA
 
Frank Ford of frets.com talked about the loose bearing problem. He used a rubber band wrapped around the bearing. Not loose any more. No more problem.
 
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