Don't Buy brand ----welding rods

[Gary Max]

I have been looking at buying a box of E6011 off ebay. Dang hardware store in town has went out of sight on his prices. I know some brands are known for poor quality---- what should I stay away from.:thinking:

 

[Uglydog]

6011 isn't particularly moisture sensitive. 7000's are generally much more moisture sensitive and may require an oven.
Moreover, I'd be concerned about any dropping or mishandling which knocks the flux off.
I usually use Hobart or Lincoln.
Did you mention to the store owner that they've lost their competitive edge?
Discussing moving you business may encourage them to adjust their prices.

I have been looking at buying a box of E6011 off ebay. Dang hardware store in town has went out of sight on his prices. I know some brands are known for poor quality---- what should I stay away from.:thinking:

 

[Gary Max]

Discussing moving you business may encourage them to adjust their prices.



They are charging double and could care less about having me as a customer---- I don't spend enough a year there to make any difference.

So back to the question

Are there any brands of welding rods I should stay away from.

 

[Ray C]

Right on. I found Lincoln & Hobart are great and Forney and Harris are good and they all probably have enough quality control to ensure base material is not pig steel. Northerntool.com carries the Hobart brand at good prices. Lowes sells the Lincoln brand at good prices. http://www.lowes.com/Search=welding...0051&N=0&newSearch=true&Ntt=welding+electrode

FWIW, my favorite 7018 stick is the Lincoln Excalibur. I special-order it in 1/8 and 5/32" in 50lb tins from Lowes. Like Uglydog said, 7018 needs to be kept dry in an oven or, be baked at 300 or so for 15 minutes prior to use. Do not oven heat 60xx since it actually cracks and damages the coating and stinks-up the shop in ways you can't imagine. If any kind of rod gets oil on it, throw it away.

6011 isn't particularly moisture sensitive. 7000's are generally much more moisture sensitive and may require an oven.
Moreover, I'd be concerned about any dropping or mishandling which knocks the flux off.
I usually use Hobart or Lincoln.
Did you mention to the store owner that they've lost their competitive edge?
Discussing moving you business may encourage them to adjust their prices.

 

[Ray C]

BTW: I think there are more brands to stay away from than there are good ones worth buying so that's why I answered with my preferred brands. I simply don't trust any non-name brand. Not only does the base material need to be good quality, the coating is just as critical if not more-so. I don't trust some fly-by-nite factory without QC and a reputation to uphold.

 

[Gary Max]

Looks like I just need to stay with the Lincoln E6011s. Last time I bought 20 lbs they sat for a couple of years before I used them all up. I do have good storeage tubes with twist on lids.
Thanks for the input guys.

 

[Uglydog]

Do not oven heat 60xx since it actually cracks and damages the coating and stinks-up the shop in ways you can't imagine.

That's new information. I didn't know that about 60xx.
Thank you!i

 

[Terrywerm]

I don't oven heat my rods exactly, but I did fashion a good way to store them.

I took an old "dorm fridge" - one of those small counter height refrigerators, and removed the compressor (this was way back before regulations on discharging freon). I then mounted a light bulb socket inside the unit and put a small light bulb like an oven light in it. Maybe a 20 watt bulb. Plug it in and it keeps the inside nice and warm. Maybe a hundred degrees fahrenheit or so. Warm enough to keep everything nice and dry. No problems with 6011, 6013, 7018, nickel rod, or anything else. I end up replacing the bulb about once a year.

 

[Uglydog]

I don't oven heat my rods exactly, but I did fashion a good way to store them.

I took an old "dorm fridge" - one of those small counter height refrigerators, and removed the compressor (this was way back before regulations on discharging freon). I then mounted a light bulb socket inside the unit and put a small light bulb like an oven light in it. Maybe a 20 watt bulb. Plug it in and it keeps the inside nice and warm. Maybe a hundred degrees fahrenheit or so. Warm enough to keep everything nice and dry. No problems with 6011, 6013, 7018, nickel rod, or anything else. I end up replacing the bulb about once a year.

Understood.
The purists with deep pockets scoff at that solution. Funny thing is that it works fairly well, for pennies.

I hope to meet you at Richard Kings MN scraping class this summer.
As I have much to learn.

 

[Ray C]

Just to clarify, when I mentioned oven heat, I meant as in "toaster oven". It's OK to store them at slightly elevated temps but with 7018, I often cook them for 15 mins at 300 in a shop-only toaster oven right before I use them. Don't do that with 60xx. Matter of fact the spec sheet says not to but I ignored that once and ruined a handful of it. The fumes from the oven were sickening (figuratively. I didn't get sick actually) and the rod wouldn't work worth a darn because the coating was popping off at the top side as it heated up. This is with Lincoln brand. -Don't know if the others behave the same way...

And yes, I made a box with a light bulb in it too. Works great! Biggest problem I have with 7018 is when a transfer a couple pounds to the temporary storage tubes. They don't seal too well. When I think they've been in there for too long, I cook e'm as mentioned above, first.

Ray

That's new information. I didn't know that about 60xx.
Thank you!i