D1 Camlock chuck removal

[WesPete66]

I have a Sheldon EXL56P 10" lathe (new to me). This lathe has the optional "4-inch D1 camlock spindle". I want to remove the chuck so I can give it a proper cleaning, and also want to learn about the D1 mount in the process. But I'm having trouble getting the chuck to loosen. I've turned the 3 screws CCW, 2 screws the mark lines up at ~ 12 oclock, while 1 screw goes past the indicating line to about 9 oclock. The chuck is still very solid. Is there something else I need to do to remove this chuck? Pry it loose? Put a rod in the chuck jaws to give leverage? Help please? Thanks!

 

[pontiac428]

The cams should unlock fully at 90-180 degrees (index marks aligned) when the D1 plate is set up correctly. Turn each cam lock counterclockwise until it stops and the chuck should come free- but if you have rust or even a good oil seal, it can be tight. Penetrant and a soft faced dead blow mallet may be what it takes to break the face loose.

If the cam pins in the face plate are not adjusted properly, the engagement point will vary. The height of each pin may be a turn too loose or a turn too tight. That might not paint a clear picture for you at this junction, but once you get the chuck off, it should make more sense. There is a setup requirement (one-time) on the cam pin height, your prior owner may have not gotten it right. Easy fix though, the ideal is to have each pin lock when the cam lock index mark is between the stamped V's.

 

[benmychree]

Yes, a good whack on the back of the chuck should do the job, I use a approx. 3-4 lb lead hammer to do the job.

 

[terry_g]

Put something on the ways to protect them!!

 

[verbotenwhisky]

I have a Sheldon EXL56P 10" lathe (new to me). This lathe has the optional "4-inch D1 camlock spindle". I want to remove the chuck so I can give it a proper cleaning, and also want to learn about the D1 mount in the process. But I'm having trouble getting the chuck to loosen. I've turned the 3 screws CCW, 2 screws the mark lines up at ~ 12 oclock, while 1 screw goes past the indicating line to about 9 oclock. The chuck is still very solid. Is there something else I need to do to remove this chuck? Pry it loose? Put a rod in the chuck jaws to give leverage? Help please? Thanks!View attachment 505633

Pontiac428 pretty much covered it. My lathe has the same setup and occasionally I need to encourage it to come loose which generally doesn't require meanness. I have one of those 2 pound plastic orange dead blow hammers and I rotate the chuck while tapping it on the side. You might want to put a piece of plywood over your ways incase it gets excited and jumps off.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Put something on the ways to protect them!!

Yeah, like your hand.


I grip the chuck with my right hand while giving it a whack on the back and it just slumps off into my grip.

A board or cradle is helpful if your chuck is too heavy, and when conditions are right ( my back hurts) I’ve taken to gripping the nose of the tailstock chuck with the lathe chuck and then releasing the cams.

You can then pull it away from the headstock safely using the tailstock quill and use both hands to grab it or set it into a cradle.


Whatever way you remove it, make sure to clear all the tooling off of the tool post first.

 

[WesPete66]

Thanks all for the tips!
Well I gave a few taps with a dead blow, and it did loosen, but would not come off. Tinkered a bit more and it finally came off. The trick was to turn the screws to align all 3 marks with the 3 marks on the body. Even though the screws would turn beyond the mark by 90 degrees, don't go there or it won't release...
So, verified it is a D1-4 mount as it has .625 dia pins x3.
Began disassembly & cleaning as it's crusty as heck now. Under the grunge I start finding a nice shiny finish, and finally a mark shows up. It is a Buck chuck! And I'm a happy guy. I hope the 3 jaw is a Buck too, can't wait to find out!

 

[rwm]

Yes the index marks must be lined up to get the chuck on or off. My D1-3 will re-lock if I turn the cams all the way CCW. Glad it came free!

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Thanks all for the tips!
Well I gave a few taps with a dead blow, and it did loosen, but would not come off. Tinkered a bit more and it finally came off. The trick was to turn the screws to align all 3 marks with the 3 marks on the body. Even though the screws would turn beyond the mark by 90 degrees, don't go there or it won't release...
So, verified it is a D1-4 mount as it has .625 dia pins x3.
Began disassembly & cleaning as it's crusty as heck now. Under the grunge I start finding a nice shiny finish, and finally a mark shows up. It is a Buck chuck! And I'm a happy guy. I hope the 3 jaw is a Buck too, can't wait to find out!

Cam locks can be tricky if you’re not used to them.

We had a 12th year apprentice (think it through) who could sometimes make good parts on the lathe, other times his parts were for crap.

I followed up on a job he wasn’t getting done only to find the chuck was not tightened save for one of the 6 cam locks.

I mentioned this to him and he said he thought they all turned when you turned one just like on the chuck.

Jerry, if you’re reading this be glad you got fired before you killed yourself.

 

[pontiac428]

The trick was to turn the screws to align all 3 marks with the 3 marks on the body. Even though the screws would turn beyond the mark by 90 degrees, don't go there or it won't release...

Some lathes have a detent at the index mark to make life easier, and some have an anti-reversing stop too. Yours may or may not, the real estate available is sparse in a D1-4, but be sure to check the mechanicals at the spindle end out and get the cam locks as clean as you can, there might be small pins and springs inside that are rusted into inertia.

Now that you got a feel for how it works, you see how it's possible to adjust the cam pin height on the backplate. If the cam locks don't all engage at the same spot, moving the cam pins in or out one turn is how it's done.