D1-5 bolt into chuck specs

richl

richl

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I purchased a couple of chucks with my lathe, a 4 jaw and a 3 jaw, also the lathe came with a 4 jaw. All need to have the bolts installed into the holes in the chuck. Easy enough, but what I am experiencing is the d1-5 mount is demanding a tad bit more percision than I was delivering. Now I am wondering if there are specs for this that I should be following. I also noticed that some of the bolts bottom out before or later than others (I put a caliper on each and measured the height). Some require me to move them to other holes in order to get a good fit on the lathe.

Any help or advise would be apperciated.

Rich
 
Ok, I'm not sure if this is correct, I have a 3 jaw chuck that they sent with the lathe, measuring all the bolts from the chuck I was getting measurements from 1.49" to 1.525"... so I am making the grand leap That the spec is 1.5" give or take 10 thousands.
Installing the bolts on another chuck to 1.49 to 1.51 seemed to work on that chuck, though they were a bit uncooperative.
I am still open to suggestions and tips, I was not able to find a spec for the bolts for this specific measurement with a Internet search. I need to do another 2 chucks.

Rich
 
I just run into this myself. Apparently each bolt is numbered and each opening is numbered as well. The numbers must match, i.e. number 1 bolt has to go into number 1 opening. If you look into the opening, you will see a spiral thread, you also have to make sure that each bolt starts at the top of the thread in number order.
Hope that makes sense.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Are you referring to the cam-lock studs? They are adjusted in-out until the mark on the cam-lock is between 3 and 6 o'clock when tight. Some studs have marks or a groove cut on them to use as a starting point. Always install the anti-rotation cap screw for each stud before inserting into the spindle and locking.
 
Look on Grizzleys web site, you can download manuals for their machines. I think it is the 4003G, that has the D1-5 spindle, and explains pretty good how to install and adjust the pins.
 
Once the DI5 studs are adjusted to the right depth so that the cams are tight between the 3 and 6 o'clock position, make an index mark on the backplate and spindle nose so that the chuck can be reinstalled in the same holes every time.
 
I have about 6 D1-6 chucks/faceplates and haven't seen any studs/backplates marked from the factory as to where each stud goes. I haven't run across having to match studs to specific threaded holes. In fact you can buy backing plates with no studs or chuck.

Maybe the D1-5 is unique but I doubt it. You can buy studs all day long as replacements and it just doesn't make sense that you would have to throw away a whole chuck just because it needed a new stud.

As previously mentioned, there is usually a groove on the stud to give you your starting point.. screw stud in until the groove is just showing, put in locking capscrew and try it on the lathe, clocked the same as the previous try. Locking stud should lock between 3 and 6 o'clock position. If it doesn't then remove chuck/backing plate assembly and screw in/out the appropriate camlock stud one turn. Put locking cap screw back in and retry fit. In extreme cases you might also have to re-clock the chuck/backing plate assembly to the lathe spindle.

Once all the studs lock it up correctly mark the chuck/backing plate assembly to the lathe spindle so it can always be reinstalled in the same clocking orientation to the lathe spindle.
 
Thanks everyone, that worked fine. Easier than I though. The precision Matthew's also had it, I found it in the grizzly manual.

Rich
 
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