D Nelson's 101.07402

[macher]

Well, I finally got time to clean up and try out the 12 X 36 Craftsman lathe I recently purchased. I found the serial number, 1545 S, stamped on the far right of the ways. I was under the impression that the lathe was made around 1938, is there anyone who has a serial number table so I can verify this?

The good news, I put a dial indicator inside the spindle and it is not out-of-round. All the gears work both forward and reverse. The lead screw works fine and engages properly. No missing teeth on any of the gears. The machine is not as noisy as I thought it would be.

The bad news is that I ran all the tests on the lathe with the top gear covers removed. When I installed them and started up the lathe I heard a terrible screeching sound. Yes, the pulley was rubbing on the cover. This I can fix by grinding off a wee bit of the cover. The motor I got with the lathe has a single pulley, what are the dimensions on the double pulley that came with the machine. The motor does not have the correct mounting bracket and is held on with a piece of wood fastened to the motor by using all-thread through two of the end plate holes and then fastened to the motor mount with wood screws. Are there any illustrations of how the motor and bracket should be fastened to the counter shaft assembly. Parts of the lathe need to be painted, where do I get the beautiful blue paint that is the original color. The problem that has me puzzled is the carriage movement. The closer I get to the tail stock, the harder it is to crank the carriage. i measured the ways and got a consistent 5.750" from the headstock to the end of the ways. I haven't levelled the machine yet, but I don't know if this is causing the problem.

Some questions: what sized gears came with the lathe, where is the best place to buy replacements for worn gears, where can I get the fittings necessary to turn wood on the lathe? Another thing I noticed is that the forward and reverse gears have different tooth counts. I this the way it is supposed to be?

The steady rest I got with the lathe looks like a unit for a 9 inch South Bend or Clausing. The portion resting on the ways has one flat side and one V side. Anyone interested in trading this for a 12 in Craftsman let me know.

I am sure there will be more questions after I get it set up on a proper work bench, levelled and bolted to the floor.

Regards, Dave Nelson, Folsom, CA

 

[pdentrem]

Re: Atlas vs the others

On my 10D/F Atlas the double pulley on the motor was missing as well. I found out that it was approx 4" and 2 1/2". I purchased the matching pulleys and machined them to fit on a common shaft and never looked for the original cast one in the 20 yrs that I owned the lathe. 8 bucks and some time over an overpriced used one off the auction site.
There is some wear on the top surface of the ways, with time the carriage will get a bit loose and owners will remove the plates that are under the carriage, frt and back, and remove a shim or more to tighten the carriage to the ways, but there is a price. The ways are worn the most within 10" of the head stock, and the least by the tail stock. That is what you are feeling as you crank from end to end.
For the gears I made a posting listing the gears that the older non QCGB lathes came with. It is in this section third page, I think. The gears are 16 pitch 14.5 pressure angle.
Pierre

 

[wa5cab]

Re: Atlas vs the others

Dave,

About the best (only) drawing that you are going to find of the motor mounting is the exploded view parts drawing in the 101.07403 parts manual in Downloads.

Is there a nameplate on your machine (on the back of the ways)? If so, what is the model number? If not, is the diameter of your lead screw 5/8" or 3/4"? Does it have Timken (tapered roller) or babbit spindle bearings? Does it have back gears?

Robert D.

 

[macher]

Re: Atlas vs the others

Dave,

About the best (only) drawing that you are going to find of the motor mounting is the exploded view parts drawing in the 101.07403 parts manual in Downloads.

Is there a nameplate on your machine (on the back of the ways)? If so, what is the model number? If not, is the diameter of your lead screw 5/8" or 3/4"? Does it have Timken (tapered roller) or babbit spindle bearings? Does it have back gears?

Robert D.

Model number is 101.07402, lead screw is 5/8", it has Timken bearings and back gears.

Dave Nelson

 

[AR1911]

Re: Atlas vs the others

See if these photos are helpful

 

[macher]

Re: Atlas vs the others

See if these photos are helpful

Thanks, I can see that the motor on mine is mounted correctly.

Regards, Dave.

 

[wa5cab]

Split out from Atlas vs The Others. I was getting confused.

Dave, in case you are looking for a parts manual for your 101.07402, the nearest you are going to find is the one on the 101.07403 (copy in the Downloads). The only significant differences I recall are the lead screw diameter and all of the parts affected by this. I have a 101.07402 parts list (no drawings but the slightly smaller parts look for the most part the same). But it isn't currently ready for prime time. If you want it, I'll let you know when I get it cleaned up and in printable form.

My current estimate of manufacturing dates on the early Craftsman 12" models says that 101.07402 was made for about one year roughly first part of 1939 and last part of 1938.

If you look in Downloads, you should find a drawing for making a 2-step motor pulley. You can make one like it. Or do as Pierre did and find and modify two common single step pulleys to work.

Robert D.

 

[Sam L.]

I also have acquired a 101.07402 and have been hunting all over for any information on this lathe and am trying to figure out how to properly and safely use it.

 

[wa5cab]

Sam,

The 101.07402 uses the later "A" suffix change gears with 1/2" hub length and 64T as the largest gear. So the threading chart for it and the 101.07403 are the same. The two major differences between it and the 101.07403 is that it has a 5/8" diameter lead screw and the one-piece carriage with no power cross feed. Atlas (or Sears) never did illustrated parts lists until around 1948 or 1950. So only on the 101.07403 and the two upgrades with the QCGB. But if you download the 101.07383 parts manual for the carriage and lead screw and the 101.07403 for the rest, you pretty much have it as far as parts go.

Plus you need a 1937V5 version of the MOLO. They turn up on eBay fairly frequently but of course the sellers don't know anything beyond that it's Copyright 1937. There are six currently known versions that all say "Copyright 1937" so you will usually have to write the seller and ask him whether or not there are any pages bound into Part 7 - Threading. And if there are, does the first printed page say Sears Master Craftsman 12", Atlas F-Series 10" or neither.

 

[Mondo]

I also have acquired a 101.07402 and have been hunting all over for any information on this lathe and am trying to figure out how to properly and safely use it.

Congratulations on the acquisition!

...how to properly and safely use it.

Keep shirt sleeves rolled up above the elbow; neckties, long beards, long hair must be keep tucked inside a shirt; never reach over a rotating chuck or workpiece! Stand back and keep your shirt or apron 12" from the machine while it is running! Do you wear a shop apron with a tie string at waist-level? Tie it at the back and always step BACK away from the machine before turning around. You will be amazed at the stuff a rotating chuck or workpiece can grab hold of and take for a circular ride! Extended chuck jaws and lathe dogs can be really brutal knuckle-busters.

Spiral_Chips