Cutting Socket Cap Head SS Screws

devils4ever

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I need to cut down some 2-1/2" stainless steel socket cap head screws to 2-1/4".

I've never cut stainless steel before. What is the best way to do this? On the mill? How to hold this in the mill? I have V blocks but can't figure out how to hold them.

Note that I only have HSS tooling on my lathe.
 
Many ways to approach this.
Some thoughts:

Some stainless cuts fine with HSS. Some can work harden if they rub on the tool and get hot.

This could be easily done with a vise and a hacksaw, and then chamfered on the bench grinder.

You could build a jig. If you get a block of steel that is 2-1/4" in thick and then drill and tap for those screws, you can simply screw them in one at a time, hold the block in the mill vise and and mill them flush. Removing the screws from the block will help clean the threads. Probably still want to chamfer at the grinder.

On the lathe if your chuck jaws are not too deep, you could put the bolts in head first and cut off the excess. It's best if you can wrap the threads in a small pieces of thin aluminum sheet to protect them, or use collets. Since you are only removing 1/4" inch I'd just face them off rather than "parting".

-brino
 
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Thread 2 nuts on to the screw and tighten them each other, like jam nuts work, then hold them in the mill vise or lathe chuck. I would use the lathe , easier to cut a chamfer to clean up the thread start.
 
I need to cut down some 2-1/2" stainless steel socket cap head screws to 2-1/4".

I've never cut stainless steel before. What is the best way to do this? On the mill? How to hold this in the mill? I have V blocks but can't figure out how to hold them.

Note that I only have HSS tooling on my lathe.
This is a task I do often. The lathe isn't the best tool but it works well holding the waste threaded end in a collet and then parting it off. 18-8 is soft as pointed out and cuts with out issue. My preferred method is on the band saw. I have a little jig plate that has a "V" groove milled in it and a toe clamp to hold the screw down (This works with the 4x6 Horiz. Saw). Often I just use my band saw vise or even an upside down drill press vice on the vertical saw. Belt sander and the wire wheel to dress the thread at the end. I haven't cut one off in the mill, I'm into instant gratification.:)
 
Okay. Success. I used the lathe with a 3/16" collet to hold the 10-32 screw. It is 18-8. I tried using a regular lathe bit and face them off, but it seemed to struggle. So, I used the parting tool and it worked okay with lots of Tap Magic and a very slow feed rate.

My first cuts of stainless.
 
I'm not sure if these photos are of much use, I'm new around here and not the most accomplished guy here for sure. My solutions for an M-6:
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who can argue with a hacksaw and a file? 10-32 and smaller, electricians crimping pliers often have threaded sheers for those screws built in.
 
Just one thought here ... if you're going to use hacksaw (or even a bandsaw), it's helpful to thread a nut onto the portion of the screw you're going to keep. After cutting, un-threading the nut helps get rid of burrs.

OK, two thoughts ... I've used such crimping pliers to cut screws lots of times in the past. But stainless steel 10-32 screws will really challenge the pliers (as well as your grip strength)!
 
I almost always use a couple of nuts threaded on so as to leave only the part to cut off sticking out. Clamp it in a vice, then depending on length, either use a cutoff disk on a die grinder and then finish with an abrasive disk to clean it up. If the cut off section is short enough I just use the abrasive disk to grind it off flush with the face of the nut. I've used this method form 0-80 to 3/8 dia. screws steel, stainless steel, brass etc.
 
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