Cutting 1/4" Deep Cross Hatch Pattern (newbie)?

[RegisG]

I have an 1/8" chamfer end mill that would cut the appropriate size but I've never used it except for counter-sink. How do you determine how much you can cut on a pass (depth of cut, feed, speed)? Do you just use sound & feel? I'm cutting 1/4" deep cross hatch in aluminum and brass.

Appreciate any tips?
Regis

 

[T Bredehoft]

I think you will find that a chamfer tool won't remove material satisfactorily at the center, the flutes are just too small compared to the amount of metal removed.
Ideally what you want to do should be done on a horizontal machine, assuming you want to finish with a coarse knurl effect.

 

[Wreck™Wreck]

Not enough information.
However the materials being aluminum and brass have at it at max spindle speed, for a 1/8" tool 10.000 RPM's would not be fast enough, also use flood coolant if possible.

Look here http://www.sgstool.com/PDF-speedfeeds/SGS-Speeds-Feeds-GP.pdf

 

[JimDawson]

How do you determine how much you can cut on a pass (depth of cut, feed, speed)? Do you just use sound & feel?

I assume the 1/8'' is the diameter of the cutter, so as Wreck™Wreck says faster is better. I'm going to say about 0.015 DOC, spindle speed as high as your machine will go, feed by feel, maybe 5 IPM or so, and a minimum of spray mist coolant, and keep the tool wet.

 

[RegisG]

I think you will find that a chamfer tool won't remove material satisfactorily at the center, the flutes are just too small compared to the amount of metal removed.
Ideally what you want to do should be done on a horizontal machine, assuming you want to finish with a coarse knurl effect.

I tried the chamfer and it looks terrible from top to bottom. Will require a lot of hand filing cleanup.
Thanks
Regis

 

[RegisG]

I assume the 1/8'' is the diameter of the cutter, so as Wreck™Wreck says faster is better. I'm going to say about 0.015 DOC, spindle speed as high as your machine will go, feed by feel, maybe 5 IPM or so, and a minimum of spray mist coolant, and keep the tool wet.

I can not run up to 10,000, as Wreck-Wreck suggested, more like 2,500 rpm max. I do need to get the right end mill for this as the chamfer I have is not up to this kind of work. These are the heads for tenderizers that my wife wants me to make for family members (about 7 or 8).

Thought it was nice project and something new to learn.
Thanks,
Regis

 

[JimDawson]

Ahhhhh, OK. Now that I know what you're making, that is helpful.

A 90° v-cutter carbide tipped router bit is what you really need. Available at your local big box store. 2500 RPM, 0.030 DOC, 10 IPM, spray mist coolant.

 

[chips&more]

Maybe use a regular end mill and tilt the work 45°. Or tilt the head.

 

[RegisG]

Ahhhhh, OK. Now that I know what you're making, that is helpful.

A 90° v-cutter carbide tipped router bit is what you really need. Available at your local big box store. 2500 RPM, 0.030 DOC, 10 IPM, spray mist coolant.

That will do the trick for me. Never thought of running over to Lowes for cutter. Will be aluminum handle though as cleans up better for kitchen.

Thank you,
Regis

 

[JimDawson]

I use a lot of carbide router bits in aluminum and sometimes steel. Both solid carbide and carbide tipped. I buy 1/2 inch shank where possible. The corner rounders are great, you just have to pull the bearing off and sometimes grind the bearing nose off. They're normally cheaper than metalworking equivalents and if you break one on a Saturday afternoon you can run to the local hardware store and get another one.