Craftsman 101 Bearings and Race?

B

bumbino

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Hello All. I've had this for a few years but never had the time. Now I have the time and a specific need and of course there's a problem. I have a little bit of chuck wobble or vibration. I have been thinking that the spindle was bent, but I set up a dial indicator on it today and found about 0.100 play in from front to back but none vertical. I tore it all apart. It was a nightmare getting the chuck free, but it's all torn down now. I feel the issue is bearings.

Bearing are Timken
Rear (near back gear) Bearing 14125-A
Rear Race 14276-B
Front (near chuck) Bearing 16150
Front Race 16284-B

The cost of the bearings isn't so bad, but the races.... the cost of these races are nearly four times the cost of the bearings. I have found another brand (Bower) that claims to be better than timken.

Should I stay with timken and is it absolutely necessary to also replace the race?

Thank you,
John

https://imgur.com/a/j4p1qW6

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Bone Head said:
If the bearing gets changed so does the race. Can't you get a matched set?
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I have found the specific bearing I need with "a" race, but not the specific race. cost of rear bearing $20. cost of front bearing $40. cost of rear race $50. cost of front race $200.
 
Timkins? Where are you getting them? Got part numbers for them?
 
The dimensions of the internals could be slightly different between brands, so they need to be replaced if you are using different brands. If you are replacing a Timken with a Timken, than in theory it would work to leave the old cups in, but the cups could have wear or damage that would negate having a new bearing in there, so when replacing the bearing, it is good practice to replace the cup as well.

The cups should not be 4x the bearing price in the same grade, where are you seeing those prices? I’m not familiar with Bower, I would stick with Timken, but you can also find these bearings from SKF or NTN, so those could be options too. Based on the prices you posted, those are standard tolerance bearings, is the expensive cup a higher tolerance with a -3 on the end of the part number? That would explain the price difference. Take a look at BDI Bearings, they have prices on some of those, but you might need to call a branch. Www.bdiexpress.com

Have you tried putting the proper preload on the bearings and see if that removes the axial play? 0.1” is huge, you need to find out why you had so much before replacing the bearings, you could have a different problem that needs to be solved.
 
Bone Head said:
Timkins? Where are you getting them? Got part numbers for them?
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Shopping ebay. I don't do amazon. I hate the company. Drivers know they are not welcome here.

I listed the parts above ...
Bearings are Timken
Rear (near back gear) Bearing 14125-A
Rear Race 14276-B
Front (near chuck) Bearing 16150
Front Race 16284-B

Thank you, John
 
Ischgl99 said:
The dimensions of the internals could be slightly different between brands, so they need to be replaced if you are using different brands. If you are replacing a Timken with a Timken, than in theory it would work to leave the old cups in, but the cups could have wear or damage that would negate having a new bearing in there, so when replacing the bearing, it is good practice to replace the cup as well....
Click to expand...
Shopping ebay. No in fact the most costly part is the front race. 16284-B it's like $200. I have found a 16284-3 for just $50 or so, but I can't find the -3 part number on the Timken website. So I have no idea if it's actually the same part or not.
 
First thing to check would be the bearing preload, then if the problem still exists, check bearings for damage
0.1 is huge
 
The -3 means it’s a grade 3 precision bearing, so better than the standard grades and more suitable for machine tools, but also a lot more $$. Are the bearings in your machine standard grade or a higher precision grade? You will only find the grade designations in a description on their website since it is just a high precision than the standard bearing. On the distributor websites you will see the higher precision bearings listed with the - followed by the precision grade.

I would not consider a bearing on ebay unless you have a way to verify it is not counterfeit. It might be legitimate, but too high a possibility it is fake and won’t have the tolerances it should, nor quality.
 
So it's looking like the -A and -B in the model number of the races indicates they're flanged. Does anyone happen to know of a cross reference system for bearings? I'd like to check pricing on some other brands.
 
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