Craftsman 101.07403 Restoration

[Moodyj2000]

A week ago I picked up a 101.07403 with the 36" between centers. It was in fair shape and running but really needed a good cleaning. Since I was cleaning it I decided to do a full restoration. I have it broken down into parts and I was looking at the headstock bearings. They appear to be in good shape. I pulled the spindle and removed the cones but did not remove the cups. One question is should I look to replacing the bearings anyway since I have it apart? If I do does both the cone and cup need to be replaced or can I just replace the rollers?

Also, I am looking to use electrolysis to clean some of the small parts. The big question I have is cleaning the bed? Any recommendations for cleaning that up? I was going to use brass bristle wire wheels and WD40.

As for paint I was going to primer each part once cleaned with Rustoleum automotive primer and then paint it with grey rustoleum enamel. I am a former Navy Machinist Mate so I am naturally either drawn to grey or deck red.

Thanks for any advice in advance.

Jason

 

[pdentrem]

If replacing the head bearings, always replace in sets. No sense running new rollers on old potholes. Might not need replacing in any case. Just clean and put back.

Many parts are Zamac, clean those up in the usual way, solvent and brush.

For the ways, they are not hardened, so easy does it. I would use steel wool and oil to remove the surface rust. Scotchbrite pads like on the pot scrub pads for the kitchen work very well and are cheap. Evap o rust will be suggested but I have not used that product. Do not be too aggressive, you do not want to add to the wear but soft steel wool like 0000 or the kitchen pads are going to be fine.

I had an Atlas for 20 yrs, good machine to learn on and you can lots on it within its limits. Just no heavy cuts as it is a light machine.

Grey to look good or Red to cover up the blood sweat and tears on working on the machine?

 

[ScrapMetal]

If replacing the head bearings, always replace in sets. No sense running new rollers on old potholes. Might not need replacing in any case. Just clean and put back.

Many parts are Zamac, clean those up in the usual way, solvent and brush.

For the ways, they are not hardened, so easy does it. I would use steel wool and oil to remove the surface rust. Scotchbrite pads like on the pot scrub pads for the kitchen work very well and are cheap. Evap o rust will be suggested but I have not used that product. Do not be too aggressive, you do not want to add to the wear but soft steel wool like 0000 or the kitchen pads are going to be fine.

I had an Atlas for 20 yrs, good machine to learn on and you can lots on it within its limits. Just no heavy cuts as it is a light machine.

Grey to look good or Red to cover up the blood sweat and tears on working on the machine?

Yep, I'll suggest the Evapo-rust! :biggrin: I love that stuff. http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html I am seriously considering ordering a 55 gallon drum of the stuff. Make some kind of trough to lay the bed in and pour a couple gallons of Evapo-rust over it. Let it soak for a few hours. Wipe off. Done. Rust is all gone. Check out the MSDS on their web page, the stuff is about as dangerous as "Silly Putty".

I really don't like taking steel wool or brass brushes to the ways even though they really shouldn't hurt anything as long as one is careful.

-Ron

 

[Moodyj2000]

I have a blast cabinet that I have used in prepping some small firearms parts in the past. I have both glass beads and aluminum oxide for it. With duracoat it was alway better to use the aluminum oxide prior to spraying, is that true also with the cast iron and enamel paint or do most use glass beads?