Compressor auto drain

What kind is it? This is a project I need to do. So you route a line up to the valve and the other end goes where? Does the valve plug into an outlet? Or do you wire it to the compressor?
 
I mounted mine right at the tank drain, and wired it right across the compressor motor. It has a bunch of programming options, but I chose to have it give a 4 second drain whenever the compressor motor comes on. This has worked flawlessly.


Mine is 120/220 volt capable.
 
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I have my drain hose going into a bucket, just to save a possible mess. A lot of folks run their line outside through the wall. I worry about freezing myself. I have mine plugged directly into a wall socket. Mine is a Rapid Air, but there are several on Amazon also.
 
I have my drain hose going into a bucket, just to save a possible mess. A lot of folks run their line outside through the wall. I worry about freezing myself. I have mine plugged directly into a wall socket. Mine is a Rapid Air, but there are several on Amazon also.
I ran mine through the block wall outside. It froze up once last winter. Probably because we had a few days of North wind and was especially cold. Easily thawed out with a electric heater. I have both the air dryer and compressor drain going thru the wall outside. Only because the air blasts gets annoying.
Martin
 
I have mine setup to blow down once every 24 hours for 10 seconds. More than enough to keep the tank drained with my usage. It is also drained outside.
 
I have my drain hose going into a bucket, just to save a possible mess. A lot of folks run their line outside through the wall. I worry about freezing myself. I have mine plugged directly into a wall socket. Mine is a Rapid Air, but there are several on Amazon also.

We use a similar drain valve on the compressors at work. Whole different environment, but we've got them dumping six seconds at 20 and 40 minute intervals. But at home.... You're probably better off as you are, cycling it with the motor. If (if.....) you're interested in running the drain outdoors, and you're worried about freezing, (ours don't freeze, ever), after the valve, First, put the discharge into a quarter inch poly tube (air brake tube on Amazon), you'll get very good velocity, and still a good volume. Second, make sure there's "some" slope in the tubing from the freeze point, which will be probably somewhere in the wall to a few inches inside, so water can't pool. Third, during the warm (humid) months, pay attention to see that ALL the water drains, and there's one and a half or two seconds of "dry" air to blow the tube out after it discharges the water. That's your insurance policy, The warm air caries WAY more water than the dry air that you have at freezing temperatures or below, so even if you find a sudden higher than normal use in the winter time, you won't build up enough condensation to exceed the drain time and loose the "blowout" at the end.

I'm in a pickle at home. When I gave up on small compressors and finally got a commercial one (well, box store commercial one), I put a tether valve on the bottom. I've got the cable set up so I can just kind of push it with my foot to drain the tank. It works well enough that I can't bring myself to upgrade..... Automatic is still better though.

 
I have my drain hose going into a bucket, just to save a possible mess. A lot of folks run their line outside through the wall. I worry about freezing myself. I have mine plugged directly into a wall socket. Mine is a Rapid Air, but there are several on Amazon also.
I doubt Rapid Air makes them, they are probably the off the shelf Chinese products, maybe the higher end specs.
 
We use a similar drain valve on the compressors at work. Whole different environment, but we've got them dumping six seconds at 20 and 40 minute intervals. But at home.... You're probably better off as you are, cycling it with the motor. If (if.....) you're interested in running the drain outdoors, and you're worried about freezing, (ours don't freeze, ever), after the valve, First, put the discharge into a quarter inch poly tube (air brake tube on Amazon), you'll get very good velocity, and still a good volume. Second, make sure there's "some" slope in the tubing from the freeze point, which will be probably somewhere in the wall to a few inches inside, so water can't pool. Third, during the warm (humid) months, pay attention to see that ALL the water drains, and there's one and a half or two seconds of "dry" air to blow the tube out after it discharges the water. That's your insurance policy, The warm air caries WAY more water than the dry air that you have at freezing temperatures or below, so even if you find a sudden higher than normal use in the winter time, you won't build up enough condensation to exceed the drain time and loose the "blowout" at the end.

I'm in a pickle at home. When I gave up on small compressors and finally got a commercial one (well, box store commercial one), I put a tether valve on the bottom. I've got the cable set up so I can just kind of push it with my foot to drain the tank. It works well enough that I can't bring myself to upgrade..... Automatic is still better though.

only problem with that is controlling the water. I get a lot of water. I built a muzzle so it disperses the water in a jar. Rather than having a high stream that blows all over the place. I wish I was smart enough to have thought about it before I re-did my sump area. I have a lexan cover glued down with silicone, I could have drilled a hole and put the muzzle under it.
 
Winegrower -
That valve looks far superior to the kludge I'm using now. Thanks for the link! It's on my wish list.

PS - I use a large spring, soft soldered to the outside of a reducing bushing and plugged at the other end , as a kind of muffler/muzzle for the tank drain exhaust. It lives in a bucket of sorts.
 
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