Collet organizer

zippyslug31

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Dec 15, 2022
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I didn't have a good location to install a normal collet rack, so I figured why not make a custom solution. I wanted to store the collets together with the chuck (and its tools) and decided what better place than right under the headstock itself. I figured I could make a drawer with stuff I had on hand... nothing more than some scrap OSB for the "drawer", a handle from an old filing cabinet, and some old drawer slides I had lying around. I didn't want to make an actual drawer with any real depth since I wanted a quick grab-n-go form factor, plus I didn't want to make a tempting location for random junk to gather. I decided to just make the rack itself be slide out. Mounting the chuck body was a simple matter of drilling a few holes for the mounting pins.

The only trick was how to store the collets themselves on a slide out shelf. I assumed I could just blast some holes in the OSB, but I wanted the additional strength in the slide out so I doubled up the OSB base. Cutting angled holes was doable, but didn't want to give up on the base's rigidity. It dawned on me that I could use some type of foam to hold the collets, but styrofoam was too delicate and I hate all the white popcorn that falls off. Instead, I used a thin bit of pink foam insulation and bonded (spray glue) a thin piece of plywood (1/8" ?) to make it a little more impact resistant. The thickness of the foam board was the perfect thickness for my ER40 collets (1" or 2" I believe) so they could sit on directly on the shelf base; no need to poke any thru-holes in the underlying OSB itself.

I first took a piece of cardboard and cut it to the final overall size that would fit on the slide out shelf, followed by laying out the grid for all the collets. I then could transfer each hole's center from the cardboard onto my foam board and piece of thin plywood. With the grid transferred, I chucked up a hole saw in my drill press and cut out the holes. I kept the holes in the plywood a little undersized with the idea that I would finish each hole after I had bonded the plywood to the foam board.

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To cut a proper angle in the foam/plywood sandwich, I turned down a custom mandrel using a collet to pickup the correct angle; to this I glued some 80 grit sandpaper.
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I chucked up the mandrel in the drill press and cut out the perfect receiver hole for a collet... the 80 grit cut both materials incredibly easy! Pro tip: it was definitely necessary to set my depth stop on the drill press so I didn't go too deep and enlarge the holes too much.
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After this, I gave the whole thing a coat of oil-based paint to protect the thing from cutting fluids. Also printed up some labels for each size.
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Lastly, took the trusty spray glue and bonded it to the slideout base. Fairly simple to build and has just the right proportion of "functional-while-still-ghetto" that I find works best for me. :chunky:
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(I would have added a short video of it, but Imgur seems to not be working at the moment. :( )
 
The only thing that could be a potential downside would be the foam acting as a moisture trap but otherwise a very nice example of "Waste-not, Want-not" as well as "why buy it when you can make it"
 
The only thing that could be a potential downside would be the foam acting as a moisture trap
You're certainly not wrong in that assumption, but I'm in a pretty dry climate. Add in the fact that all of the collets are oiled and there's really no water anywhere around my lathe, and I'd say that I don't have much to worry about. Time will tell though...
 
I am sitting here now, wondering how that foam will hold up to having a film of oil on it.....

I have seen rusting/flash rusting due to hot-cold cycles of day to night cooldown, even in a so-called "dry" climate.
 
That looks very useful and convenient.
Brian
 
wondering how that foam will hold up to having a film of oil on it.....
Honestly, I'm wondering this too. This being said, the oil-based paint that I slapped on the sides of the foam didn't do anything. Same goes for the spray adhesive I used; I really wasn't sure if it wouldn't just dissolve on me the second it came in contact with those chemicals. This pink foam stuff sure is a different animal compared to, say, styrofoam. Seems pretty stable.

So far it's doing fine and not showing any signs of chemical break down, etc.
 
One way to find out... Drop one of the off-cuts in a glass jar of oil and see what happens.
 
I work with XPS foam all the time. The base material is polystyrene. It will not absorb or retain water. It's one of the selling points of the material and is often used underground. It will be attacked by oils and most solvents....probably quite agressively. Alcohol is the exception. If you just coat the contact area with shellac, it will hold up fine. Shellac is reduced by alcohol and will not attack the foam. If you use other petroleum/ester based varnishes or lacquer, they will aggressively attack and dissolve the foam. If you coat/seal the foam first in a generous layer of shellac, you can often use paints and coating that would otherwise aggressively attack the foam if you dont lay them on too thick.

Epoxies are also foam safe. Polyester (ala marine resin, body filler) is not. But similarly, if you coat the foam with epoxy, you can build polyester on top of that. I've used this for lost foam pattern composite lay ups. Urethane foams are typically more resistant to solvents.

Best,
Kelly
 
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I work with XPS foam all the time. The base material is polystyrene. It will not absorb or retain water. It's one of the selling points of the material and is often used underground. It will be attacked by oils and most solvents....probably quite agressively. Alcohol is the exception. If you just coat the contact area with shellac, it will hold up fine. Shellac is reduced by alcohol and will not attack the foam. If you use other petroleum/ester based varnishes or lacquer, they will aggressively attack and dissolve the foam. If you coat/seal the foam first in a generous layer of shellac, you can often use paints and coating that would otherwise aggressively attack the foam if you dont lay them on too thick.

Epoxies are also foam safe. Polyester (ala marine resin, body filler) is not. But similarly, if you coat the foam with expoxy, you can build polyester on top of that. I've use this for lost foam pattern composite lay ups. Urethane foams are typically more resistant to solvents.

Best,
Kelly
Now that, is actually rather interesting and it sounds like hard earned, hard won knowledge.

Will have to remember that.
 
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