Collet closer for new lathe? Taper attachment?

PT Doc

PT Doc

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What are your recommendations for buying a new lathe, would you want to get one with a collet closer? If not, how do you mount your 5c collets. What about a taper attachment? Probably easier and cheaper to get it right away but I’m interested in hearing from those that bought either and regretted it or the other way around. Thanks for the input!
 
If planning to do work hat needs collects it great
Tapped is yes maybe hard to come by later
I purchase a tapper for lathe back the 1970's still use it

Dave
 
If my SB Heavy 10L hadn't come with a collet closer, it would be on my list right behind a decent quality QCTP, which would make it #2. That's just me, you CAN get along without one. A taper attachment is one of those must have accessories that is rarely used. Much easier to get with the original purchase than find a correct one later.
 
The taper attachment is much harder to get later. Even if that model of lathe is still made, some times they change details of the attachments so that it is not as simple as just adding it later.

Ther are a few options for using collets. It is easy to get a collet chuck later. You can add a collet closer, such as a Royal. You can make up an adapter sleeve & extension + drawbar. There are numerous ways to work with collets - very easy to add them later.
 
I purchased a used SB Hvy10 a few years back and it had neither, but I added a hand made collet closer and picked up a used taper attachment off of Ebay back then. I was lucky to find the T/A. I used both regularly and would not be without either. If you can swing it - I'd say get both right away and be done with it......
 
This is truly one of those, what are you doing things. True - taper attachment buying later may be difficult. Collet chucks are much easier and can be adapted from various sources. We bought a new lathe for work, "had" to have the taper attachment, never used it (going on 10-12 years). Depending on size of lathe, the top slide will let you do most tapers for short tooling projects. Rifle barrels is different. A better 3 jaw, set true style or not, may be a better investment. Collets are about setup speed with nominal sized material. Look at Joe Pie's collet video, he has some interesting things to say and may steer you in a direction. Accuracy can come from a 4 jaw just as easily. The QCTP would be high on my list as well. I don't have a DRO, but for similar bucks as a taper attachment I would say I would use it more.. I just bought a PM1340GT with all the better chucks - my philosophy was to cover the basics well, the rest would come (the less is more path). That is/was my take for the $ vs. features equation. But, again, depends on what you are doing or want to do and budget (that money thing just sucks sometimes). So to add confusion to the answer depending on budget - get a better base machine, get the QCTP, the DRO, the collet chuck,then the taper attachment would be my order of importance for my needs. Unlimited budget, get it all and have a well tooled machine to do anything you can imagine. We tend to be pretty fertile around here.
 
I bought a Grizzly G0709 14" x 40" lathe a couple of years ago and within 6 months bought both the taper attachment and a lever-style collet closer. I'm blessed with a nice second lathe that I leave a 5-C collet chuck on, so don't do much collet work on the Grizzly. However, if I didn't have the other lathe, it'd get used a fair amount as a lot of my projects involve turning brass. I like the collets for not marking up the work. I've had lathes with a draw tube, a lever-style closer and a collet chuck. They each have their place but my personal preference is the collet chuck.

I've used the taper attachment 3 or 4 times, so nothing will get worn out on it at this rate in my lifetime. Not a "gotta have" for my projects, but I have it when I need it.

Good advice from GL just above by the way. I have a DRO on my Grizzly and use it a lot. I usually don't turn it on if the work is just diameter only turning. But if the part has critical depths or shoulders, the DRO gets used. I wrote the tool bit width (HSS cut off blade, GTN 2 and GTN 3 inserts) on the QC tool holder with a paint marker. If I need a "chunk" cut off 1" long, bring the bit into contact with the end of the work, set the readout to the bit width, then turn past to 1" (+) and part. It's a little quicker than scratching the surface with a caliper or using an indicator on a magnetic base to measure carriage movement toward the chuck.

I guess in summary, if you can afford it, buy everything you can for the machine. I equate it to an old say about buying cheap tools: You smile the day you write the check, but frown every day after. Buy good tools and you frown the day you write the check, but smile every day after when using it.

Good luck on the purchase!

Bruce
 
Thanks for the replies. DRO is a must for me. I might pass on the collet closer and get collet chuck if needed. Will think about the taper attachment some more.
 
I've spent about 75% of the cost of my G0709 on accessories, measuring tools and tooling if you're looking at a rough budget for practically everything you can throw at a lathe. Added the DRO (TPACtools), collet closer (Grizzly), taper attachment (Grizzly), 1/16" - 1 1/8" by 1/64" collets (CDCO), square and hex 5-C collets (CDCO and Shars), an 8" set-tru style 3-jaw chuck (CME tools), DRO on the tail stock (CDCO), extra live centers/drill chucks (eBay), ~35 QC tool holders (CDCO), various style tool holders/boring bars (eBay) and a Harbor Freight tool chest to house it all. On top of that are screw pitch mics, 0-4" set of digital mics, inside mics, dial indicators, etc. etc. etc. I already had a Dumore tool post grinder, so didn't buy another of those.

Sounds like you've got a great plan!

Bruce
 
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