Clutch Issue

S

Square4

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I have a Sheldon SEWQ lathe that has a problem for which I am looking for guidance to solve. The feed clutch engages but then it is very challenging to disengage at the end of a cut. A strap wrench is used to disengage it but this is very awkward. Does anyone know why this is happening? Is there a simple fix and if so any idea what I need to do? Other lathes that I have used have a lever for engaging and disengaging the clutch. Has anyone added a lever to replace the knurled knob?
 
I don't claim to be an expert, but here's my thoughts on this. The clutch on the Sheldon is similar to ones on the South Bend Lathes. They are a cone to cup engagement that over time become sticky and stick and won't dis-engage as in your case. You may have to dis-assemble the apron and do a cleaning. Have you added oil to the apron? They do need some lubrication for them to work properly. Next when you engage the clutch by tightening the knob, just barely engage the clutch. Too much tightening will make it impossible to dis-engage. Just tighten enough to get the clutch to "grab" and start feeding. If it slips, tighten the knob a little more. Again, do not over tighten!
 
Ken, thanks for the advice. I decided to reassess the clutch since I have done everything without using the clutch for several years. So when I tried to engage the clutch it was frozen in the off position. Do you know how to break it loose? Or am I in need of a tear down and cleaning? I have never torn an apron apart and was wondering what I need to remove in order to get it stripped in order to fully clean it? Any thread or other reference that gives a blow by blow process for this disassembly/reassembly? I have done some searching for info but it is generally some one that is doing a full restoration and may not represent the key steps that I should be following to only tear down for a cleaning of the clutch/cone parts.

Steve
 
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What they said. Here's my Logan clutch, might be of some benefit


Take your time, figure it out, clean, lube, re-assemble, add oil
 
eeler 1 the videos were very helpful and I watched 3 of them. One question that I have is about removing the apron, does one have to remove the screw shaft from the quick change gear box in order to remove the apron or can one unbolt the apron and some how work it off of this screw shaft? All of the videos and info that I have seen skip this point as if it is a known given to all. When that is resolved, I do not see any other problems in moving forward stripping the apron down and cleaning it up.
 
On my Logan I simply removed the lead screw bearing from the RH end of the bed and, after disconnecting the apron from the cross feed, slid the entire apron off the RH end of the lathe. The Sheldon may be similar.

Working on the apron was quite simple and straightforward, although it can be a bit messy. If your apron hasn't seen oil in several years there's likely to be a layer of nasty goo on the inside. Plan on getting a disposable pan, brush, blue shop towels, and a quart of thinner.

While the apron is removed is a good time to consider adding new bushings on the wallowed out shafts, and maybe even a modern sight glass for the oil level.
 
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What wobbles said. Mrpete222 has a video where he pulls an apron off a plain change Logan, maybe check that out too. Usually just take the mounting bracket off the tailstock end of the leadscrew, make sure half nuts and power feeds not engaged and wrestle it off. May have to loosen gibs too. Never seen a small lathe that didn't work that way.
 
I would strongly recommend that in addition to removing the fasteners holding the right lead screw bearing to the bed, you also remove the lead screw before you remove the screws holding the apron to the saddle. Else you introduce the possibility of bending the lead screw near the left bearing or the QCGB.
 
I wanted to thank wobbles, eeler 1 and wa5cab for the great tips. This guidance gives me the confidence to tackle the job. My lead screw looks like it is held on to the gear case shaft with a tapered pin. So by removing it and the right side mount should allow the lead screw to be easily removed. I appreciate wobbles suggestion to check the bushing for wear and replace as needed. I will have to evaluate where it is practical to locate a sight glass but never would have thought about making this upgrade. Thanks again for the great guidance.
 
On my Logan it wasn't feasible to add the size sight glass I really wanted, so instead the drain plug is getting modified to accept a short piece of small diameter clear tubing. This tubing is going to hug the bottom and right side of the apron, and end just under the carriage. In this way the oil level in the apron will be clearly visible in the tubing.
 
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