Cleaning my new to me gauge pins holder FAIL

[woodchucker]

I thought about how to keep the pins while cleaning the styrofoam that the pins are loaded into...
TAPE.. great, tape both sides keeping the work of putting them back to a minimum...

That seems to work...
The cleaning FAILED big time.
I took the empty styrofoam upstairs put some palmolive soap on it, took out my OLD beat up scrub brush that I replaced and scrubbed the dirt off..
I scrubbed the sizes off too... So in an effort to read the numbers, I now have no numbers.. Brilliant right?

 

[benmychree]

I hate it when that happens! Hope that you have a micrometer---

 

[woodchucker]

yea, but I don't think I need to measure, I just need to re-number. But my hand writting SUCKS.
I gotta see if I can find a flair type pen. Most all the fine markers have a sharp cylinder type point, which don't write well on styrofoam.

I can't see doing a label maker type label.. I just looked on the Meyer website, they don't sell the styrofoam anymore. The catalog under the styrofoam had new styrofoams for practically nothing. But I don't see these kits in the line anymore.

 

[francist]

Ugh, I’ve done stuff like that too.
Maybe not the most convenient but you could lay out a legend (maybe map is a better word) on the computer and reduce it until it’s the same size as the pin layout. Not the same as having the print directly on the foam, but at least you’d be able to get nice small and fine numerals.

-frank

 

[pacifica]

I thought about how to keep the pins while cleaning the styrofoam that the pins are loaded into...
TAPE.. great, tape both sides keeping the work of putting them back to a minimum...

That seems to work...
The cleaning FAILED big time.
I took the empty styrofoam upstairs put some palmolive soap on it, took out my OLD beat up scrub brush that I replaced and scrubbed the dirt off..
I scrubbed the sizes off too... So in an effort to read the numbers, I now have no numbers.. Brilliant right?View attachment 382347View attachment 382349View attachment 382350View attachment 382351View attachment 382352

I just bought a set of meyer pin gages (engraved)to replace the chinese set I have- was frustrated trying to read the light printed sizes on the chinese pins.

 

[woodchucker]

some of my etchings are gone. You can tell they were used a lot. So it's not surprising. What is surprising is how clean the set is. They mic perfect to a couple of tenths over (plus set). So I consider them a really nice set.

I'll give the company a call Monday and see if they have the styrofoam.. if they do, and it's reasonable it's worth ordering.
But I may have to do like Frank says and do a computer layout. Maybe create strips... maybe laminate the strips.
I might be able to get excel to help with the widths.

 

[woodchucker]

Here's a spreadsheet if you have the Meyer M1 set.
it will print close to accurately spaced lines.. just cut apart and insert onto the styrofoam.

 

[Bi11Hudson]

When gluing a paper strip to the styrofoam, DO NOT use ACC (SuperGlue) or most any other high stickum glue. The solvent will melt the styrofoam. I have used Elmer's successfully on styrofoam, it gets into the "grain" and hardens. Just like wood but larger. . . It also works well on blank paper strips to allow "Sharpie" ink usage for hand labeling. Further, if the labels above are a "near" fit, using white glue to attach and/or cover the paper will allow some cleaning in the future. Normal shop oils and greases will not break it down. They can't be soaked but will withstand wiping. I use Isopropyl (alcohol) for most of the oils and greases I use. (Small stuff) Don't use drug store alcohol, it's mostly water. I use 90% or better. Some chain stores carry it, some don't. But it works on most plastics. Test it before sloshing it on.

.

 

[woodchucker]

yep, I used to build model airplanes, in the old days after stick built , we did balsa over foam. then came carbon fiber over foam w/ epoxy, then hollow core molded where it is now.. for highly competitive planes.

so I am pretty knowledgable on the C/A's attacking. there are C/A's that are friendly to styrofoam, but I would use either white glue, yellow aliphatic, or possibly an old can of Super 77 that I have that is foam safe b4 they changed the formula. I bought a whole bunch of cans when I found out they were changing it..

The Titebond 3 is water proof, so it might be the best choice, as it will withstand another cleaning. ..

Thanks for the heads up though.. I do appreciate it.

 

[Bi11Hudson]

yea, but I don't think I need to measure, I just need to re-number. But my hand writting SUCKS.
I gotta see if I can find a flair type pen. Most all the fine markers have a sharp cylinder type point, which don't write well on styrofoam.

I can't see doing a label maker type label.. I just looked on the Meyer website, they don't sell the styrofoam anymore. The catalog under the styrofoam had new styrofoams for practically nothing. But I don't see these kits in the line anymore.

An afterthought, I think. . . I'm not sure what you are considering, but packing styrofoam is not the best solution for holding metal. You might consider foam insulation board from a lumber yard or a home center. Many have multiple types, blue, pink, etc. Buying a 4 X 8 sheet is a bit "much" but would be an alternative source for high density foam. Weight is not an issue here, so the options get wider.

.