Chuck Weight on 10EE

T

taltexan

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I’ve been looking for a D1-3 4 jaw chuck. I found a 10” 4 jaw but it weighs about 65 lbs! Is there any issues using it on the EE? Thanks
 
Not sure about the bearings but in general Monarch overbuilt these things. I’d be more inclined to go with an 8” just from the perspective of handling it for chuck changes. Keep in mind that with a 12.5” swing, you are really limited to the jaws only extending a bit over an inch each beyond a 10” chuck. At least, my plan is a 8” 4jaw, and 6” 3 jaw, but I have alternate lathes for larger things too
 
Thanks for the reply……8” 4 jaw is what I want but this one came up. Weight had me concerned.
 
I am running an 8" buck adjust true on my 10EE, got to weigh over 50 lbs. I need a 2 x4 on the bed to set it on, then pry into position.

After all that, I've run some pretty massive junks of steel in this chuck. This machine is far more rigid that a brick sh*t house.
 
While Monarch did tend to overbuild, the 10ee is known for a heavy gearbox and apron. The spindle tends towards the lighter side in comparison to comparable toolroom size lathes, Holbrook, Hendey, Smart and Brown. While 10" can be handled, I'd put it on only when needed and not use it as my go to chuck. 6" is ideal and 8" fine. 10" is clumsy and a lot of mass to spin up and slow down. If the chuck is not direct mount, the stock also sticks out a long way from the bearings which adds stress to the spindle. Dave
 
The problem is its diameter. You spin a 10", chuck up to 2500 (or worse, 4000) RPM and its likely to fly apart and hurt/kill someone.
 
Every chuck has a maximum RPM; diameter is not initial critical factor. Advertisement specifications give speed ranges, and the material; there are cast iron chucks, semi-steel, and forged bodies. There isn't anything intrinsically wrong with chucks, most large lathes have them; along with suitable speed range.
Tooling my Square Dial with 6", 8" and 10"'s. They cover 3, 4, 6 jaws, 5C and a happy accident in #215's. It's all about part size juggled with feature size. i.e. Big part with a little bore? Use a mill! Little part, high speeds = little chuck.
I wouldn't go that route so far in a geared head, without lots of speed selections. While lots have a pyramidal speed progression, some of those 'steps' just don't look right, usually in the span ~ 950-1200.
That's also where leveling is important, not only a straight bed, but equalized load bearing on the feet.
A stickler for that; no matter a lathe, mill, radial drill, shaper, punch press, shear, even a pedestal grinder.
 
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Out of sheer curiosity, what comes apart when a lathe chuck fails at high RPM? Do the jaws fly out? Is it how they are attached to the spindle? The chuck certainly look to be a solid chunk of material. Not that I am refuting the possibility, just wondering about the failure modes.
 
starr256 said:
what comes apart when a lathe chuck fails at high RPM?
Click to expand...
everything.

The chuck body will spit apart, and anything and everything will fling in every direction, amaging the lathe, you and everything in the line of fire.
 
LOL , I had a large piece of Berrylium fly out of the chuck on a cnc lathe . Smashed 3 layers of safety glass but did not come thru . I had the max speed set at 5000 rpm but my then boss said it was not neccesary to lag the machine down . He was wrong and paid dearly for his decision . :grin:
 
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